Hi Dave,
Tows / rovings, sorry, same thing.
Cut the taper on the wet out ''rope'' and tuck it into the narrow end, smoo
th it down into the mould around the end of the spar and tuck it in the oth
er narrow end, snipping off at the angle again. With the bench set up so th
e root end of the bench is in line with the wing skin root, you can tug the
rope along the bench directly into the mould.
17' was the length I worked out would give the least waste without having a
bench miles long [At Europa they have a rack of 15 spools which feed thro
ugh a wet bath of resin, this must be how they worked out you needed 15metr
es of 15 tows to do the job, can you imagine the mess trying to do that DIY
?]
6'' pneumatic sander is ideal, but a 9'' electric one would be too fierce,
just go softly softly so as not to create too much heat.
New spar depth shouldn't be an issue with a pure motorglider, only with Mon
o retrofits, could be resolved by changing the flap pushrod for a Teleflex
type cable, G-YURO had such originally, I could probably work something out
if anyone needed to go that way ?
With the original root rib to spar lay up [ 6 Bids], grind them off the spa
r completely and feather them off the rib by 1'' per ply, so over a 6'' are
a. So down to 1 Bid in the corner to nothing off at 6''. Large belt sander
and a block by hand to do that, you will see the ''tide mark'' of shiny res
in at the end of each ply as you sand through. Scuff sand past that and whe
n you replace those lay ups, finish on the spar as per Manual, and start th
e lay ups on the rib 9'' from the spar with a 1'' stagger so the last of th
e 6 plies is 3'' from the spar.
You will find carbon dust ending up EVERYWHERE ! Do it outside and let your
neighbours have some !
Cheers,
Nev
-----Original Message-----
From: djaflyact <djaflyact@gmail.com>
Sent: Mon, Oct 21, 2013 4:19 pm
Subject: Europa-List: Re: MOD 78
Thanks Nev! I am copying your notes and taking them to the hangar. I am get
ting
a bit lost in the terms "tows". "rovings". I'm a bit confused about the pac
king
of the carbon fibre in the mold. Does it wedge into the narrow end and stop
, or
does it loop and come back out? I am guessing it wedges in, but I am not su
re
what the significance of the 17 foot length is. It would be great if Europa
had
a video of the installation of the carbon into the mold.
I am committed to the project now. I've been thinking for month about how h
ard
it would be to remove the bushings from the spar tang. It went very well wi
th
heat and it looks like I will be actually grinding tomorrow or the next day
on
the first victim. I bought a 6 inch pneumatic grinder and hope that will wo
rk,
but I might be able to fit a 4 inch head on it if necessary.
I did a test fit of the intensifier board and it looks like I have plenty o
f
clearance from the tank and the items below.
Is it necessary to remove the fibre glass layers from the root rib, or coul
d I
sand and glass over them - making it thicker and heavier, but avoids grindi
ng at
the root rib - along with the glass used to secure the wing root fairing.
Thanks! Dave
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