Jack
This does work but it is vital to be certain that the resin/microballoon
mix is identical otherwise you will get hard and soft stripes, I got
that tea shirt once! It would be good with Superfil.
Graham
Jack Hilditch wrote:
> Composite racing sailboat builders use a technique that produces a
> fair surface, without bumps or valleys, while minimizing weight or
> extra filler. They screed the filler/resin mix onto the surface using
> a small-toothed, serrated plastic trowel (the same kind used to apply
> ceramic tile cement to walls). After it cures they use a long board
> to sand it down. The long board is not a fixed size. It can be 2 x
> 24 , 4 x 48 or any other size, depending on the surface area to be
> sanded. Most of them are made up in the shop using a piece of planking
> with a couple of hand made handles screwed to it and the sand paper
> glued or clamped to that. The long board rasps off the high areas, but
> leaves the valleys clearly identified by the serrated stripes of
> resin/filler. On the next pass you only need apply the mix to areas
> that remain striped. It saves work because the actual surface area
> to be sanded is reduced to the high points or lands left by the
> serrated trowel rather than a raised patch left by a smooth trowel. It
> also saves on expensive resin. You get an additional bonus using the
> technique in that the serrations also leave a greater surface area,
> and irregular surface, for the next coat to bind with or key to. Hope
> this helps. I spent plenty of time working on racing sailboats in the
> US and UK so I know the technique works with resins from both sides of
> the pond. Hope this helps.
>
> Regards,
>
> Jack Hilditch
>
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