Hi Tony
I used shielded wire and stagger soldered the connections and left a
service loop that allows easily access and replacement if ever needed
through an inspection hole and if it fails on a trip far from home, I
marked the wires so I can jog to neutral trim with a 9 volt battery:
http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=30484
I used nutplates and Allen screws that will allow removal of the servo
with a ball end Allen.
If you absolutely want to use a connector, Bob from Aeroelectric has
directions how to use a D-Sub connector with no housing, strain relieve
the wires with some clear goop, something like Shoe Goo or a name with
6000 in it, don't use stink silicone it can corrode things, no stink
is probably OK although Shoe Goo is pretty good stuff, then use a piece
of heat shrink to hold the two halves of the connector together.
Ron Parigoris
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