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Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73

Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 14 Oct 2012 18:15:37
Alan,
I am just getting around to the europa list this week.  Lots going on in 
the Europa world and many folks are doing new and interesting stuff 
keeping me busy.
Regarding your woes:
Our fix with the Loctite is quite strong.  I use a firm grip on the 
trailing edge and try to wiggle it up and down and it should not move.  
To check on a 25 hour inspection or after other maintenance where the 
stabs are removed, I apply a firm force (20 pounds)  on the leading edge 
to assure the Loctite is tight and the small amount of slop is removed.  
I prefer the pins to be properly installed.  Some new builders can't 
drill a straight or round hole so even if it were bolted, their work is 
loose.
Your lack of building review or knowledge is really not a problem.  
Review the manual on line and note that for the stab to be placed where 
it is, it must be removable and installable, and it is.

As for checking the stab on routine flights.  It is just like a Cherokee 
or similar all moving stab.  Check for excessive play, such that you can 
hear some movement but the control is solidly attached and it does not 
move un-commanded by the stick.  For an example, if the front door 
rattles when it is closed on your house, you adjust the stop and latch 
to fix it.  It is just proper maintenance and security.  Others put a 
thicker door gasket on to fit it.  I prefer to fix it right, but the the 
gasket works also.  So does the Loctite.


As for repairs:  I am an advocate of finding a repairman that is 
familiar with the type, or if no one is available to help, a good 
builder who has gone through the trials is your best bet.  I would 
prefer in the UK you take it to Nev Eyre or the factory.   If I find a 
really poorly built tail plane torque tube, I go ahead and remove it 
---From the aircraft and put it together on the bench.  I note the problems 
and will normally build new pins or install the 3/8 inch pins if not 
modified.  I do not blindly follow the instructions and just hand drill 
the pin holes.  I go to a machine shop and have the holes precisely 
bored to the pin size.  If the holes aren't true I square them and have 
a pin machined to zero tolerance.  Then fit the torque tube in the 
fuselage again and freeze the pins on dry ice to shrink them and then 
rapidly install them.  The pins warm up and get really tight. I then 
finish off the task by adding the Loctite.  It is done then and should 
be good for many, many years.  While they are making repairs, why not 
make the inspection holes slightly larger so you can work and inspect 
easily.  I do, and it is easy to work on anything in my or my customers 
tail area.

Those who have excessively sloppy tail planes should consider removal 
and pin replacement.  Also if there is excessive play, change out the 
bushings in the stab as they do wear if the play is excessive.

A good machinest will know his tools, capability and be able to make 
everything right.  Someone like Nev, or the factory can fix you right 
up.  Many experienced folks on this site will be able to help also, but 
it takes time and a proper shop as winter is approaching.

Remember, Stab control is not lost, we are preventing flutter potential 
with the Loctite should the builder not quite get it right.  

If you can move your stabs independently more than a fraction of an 
inch, by grasping them with your hand and applying force, your pins are 
a bit too loose.  Time to fix it.
Once fixed properly so there is no play, enjoy the delight of the pitch 
control system. 

Keep a positive attitude and remember the above and enjoy your airplane. 
 And please don't blame the original builder, as we are all amateurs 
with our first plane.  I spent 450 man hours to bring my really great 
deal flying used kit up to my standards (remember I am anal retentive 
about airplanes and maintenance) and it flies great.  That said, I was 
finishing up my annual inspection and found my turbo bracket cracked, 
and the Binx nut holding the bracket was gone also, most probably due to 
turbo vibration.  Oh well, it is just time and money.  The turbo will go 
to Garret, and Lockwood Aviation will get another chunk of my money for 
parts.  Ah aviation.

Regards,
Bud


  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Alan Carter<mailto:alancarteresq@onetel.net> 
  To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com> 
  Sent: Monday, October 08, 2012 5:48 PM
  Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73


<alancarteresq@onetel.net<mailto:alancarteresq@onetel.net>>

  Hello Bud.
  Just read your posting, and as a pilot and not a builder this part of 
the aeroplane has given me concern since i purchased the aircraft.
  I notice you have used Sloppy and Band Aid Fix and that,s just what it 
looks like to me.
  The problem in my case not being a builder, is lack of skills and 
materials to fix the problem,and not knowing who to to take the aircraft 
too, to have it repaired.    
  In my opinion, which seem,s to get me into trouble, I think the 
manufacturer should assign designated repair centres with the skills to 
carry out a major modification as this.  
  I can manage without a prop, i can manage without an engine, but i can 
not manage without Stabalator control. 
  This part of the aircraft is vital for survival and as i see it the 
most vital part of the aircraft, more chance here than the spare.
  Why was,nt this complete component made welded and machine finished 
unit,
  with the pins that drive the stabalator mirrored into a pre 
manufactured plate that's moulded into each stabalator, Which would give 
no play.
  Before i fly again i will do all you external checks.
  But im not sure how much pressure to apply, it is difficult to know as 
people have different ideas of force, but say the amount the same as to 
lift 1/2 a bucket of water.
  Regards 
  Alan


  Read this topic online here:


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