Nev,
Thanks for that,
We're peas in a pod I guess.
I would have a shop full of customer built items that were thrown away
due to build errors. You could build all the controls from just my
scraps.
I too believe that if it didn't come out right, (and it usually doesn't
the first time) redo it or replace it, but learn from your mistakes.
I do prefer not to force the pins in, I freeze them and then it is only
a tap through the nylon spacer. When they expand, they are super tight.
Regards and thanks,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Neville Eyre<mailto:neveyre@aol.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2012 4:48 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
Hi Alan,
It's a pity you were not available when we were working on the design
and manufacturing process all those years ago, we could have done with
an expert to help. Sorting out all of the thousands of items with your
help would have been welcome.
Everything could have been made bullet proof, trouble is the Europa
would have weighed perhaps 1200 + pounds, with little payload ?
A number of options are available to you.
1]. Submit your new [improved] design to L.A.A. you might get it
through in a year or two ?
2]. Call Karen at Europa, have your Credit Card ready, and order one
of the new [ improved] torque tube assemblies. With hindsight, and less
pressure 18 years on, Europa have done a re design on this. Back then,
we didn't take into account that builders would take it apart /
reasemble / take apart / reasemble it the wrong way round / take apart /
reassemble and wear the holes .......... or they would smack the mass
balance weights onto the stop..... If you take this option, you might
have to ream out the bores of the TP5 /TP6 sleeves in your tailplanes
to allow the torque tube to slide on easily, as they were matched to
each individual torque tube. Easy but time consuming, with a broom
handle and emery cloth.
Almost certainly you will need to sweat out the TP13 bushes [ the four
1/4'' bore drive bushes in the inboard rib] and re pot them to match the
drive pins, simple job with a heat gun and 1/4'' bolt, and some epoxy.
This heavy duty item is, funnily enough, heavier.
3]. Remove the entire torque tube assembly, mark everything as to
their orientation [ horn , drive plates and nylon spacers relative to
the torque tube] and establish the scale of the wear [in the holes, not
the pins]. If the pins are the original 1/4'', and the holes are not too
worn [ they might be now if you have been swinging on the tail to check
wear] the next size up was 5/16''. Not sure if these are available from
Europa, as they go directly to 10mm now, bigger is better, but doesn't
give you another shot at it if you mess up on reassembly. The new holes
in the tube / fiting need to be an interference fit, as in if you can
push the pin in by hand, the jobs buggered before you fit them. I have
just done this job last week to a monowheel with 800+ hours on it. very
slight play but as it was in my workshop it made sense to sort it for
another 800 hours life.
Get a machine shop to ream the holes out to 0.007'' smaller than the
pins ACTUALLY MEASURE, and make sure you don't lose the relative
positions of the fittings when this is being done. If there is
significant play between the drive plates, ensure they are clocked to be
in allignment with each other during the drilling process. DON'T trial
fit the pins ! It is a once ony job ! On reinstallation, to drive the
pins in you will need a 4lb copper hammer.With the nip of the tube on
the pin, it will need a firm wallop to drive the pins in, should be a ''
doink, doink, doink, donk '' Mark with a felt pen on the head of the
pins the axis of the split pin hole so you can have them vertical when
you insert them, it helps to taper the lead end of the pin back to the
split pin hole to assist insertion, and lube the pin with thin oil.
Depending on whether the original builder put the inspection / view
panels in the place described in the Build Manual, or chose to delete /
move them, this is either a 3 hour each way job + the machining work, or
a couple of days marathon swearing session.
This work will need inspecting, and entering in the aircrafts Log
Book.
Regards,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq@onetel.net>
To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wed, 10 Oct 2012 23:54
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
<alancarteresq@onetel.net<mailto:alancarteresq@onetel.net>>
Hi Brian.
To me it feels like play, i will check again, and slide the Stablators
off and
check inserts making sure they are bonded.
I am just a pilot but i could have done a better job in designing this
linkage.
As this has the possibility of grounding the aircraft for some
considerable
time, due to the fact that clamps are individually made to size, Why
has,t
something not been done about it.??
Why can,t you get a complete unit with clamps already made, so the job
could be
done in one go, say a day, not grounded for 2 months.
Alan
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