Purging petrol fumes, I was told by a welder of petrol tanks that he ran a car
exhaust in to the tank to purge it of petrol fumes and also air !
The alternative solution would be purge with an inert gas, IE nitrogen,this is
done when working on natural gas pipelines.
Make sure any pockets that could hold inflammable mix is purged,personally I
would
check the completeness of the purge with a gas detector .. also check adjacent
areas for fuel puddles & Fumes
Kevin
--- On Tue, 14/7/09, Jim Brown <acrojim7534@YAHOO.COM> wrote:
> From: Jim Brown <acrojim7534@YAHOO.COM>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Tank Leak Found
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, 14 July, 2009, 8:21 PM
> Jeff
>
> The patch was a "feel good thing" I did. I
> was unsure how well the pro seal would work and I felt the
> need for insurance.
>
> The tank about three or four years later developed a
> crack like you have. It had also cracked at the edge of the
> fiberglass layup in the tunnel. I had to replace the tank
> and I did NOT glass it in. Its free standing...
>
> Once I got the tank out I had a look at the original
> patch.. It was still sealed tight. I took pliers and tried
> to pull it off, I got it removed, but it was in torn in
> several pieces by the pliers.
>
> Jim Brown
>
> --- On Tue, 7/14/09, JEFF ROBERTS
> <jeff@rmmm..net> wrote:
>
>
> From: JEFF ROBERTS <jeff@rmmm.net>
> Subject: Europa-List: Tank Leak Found
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tuesday, July 14, 2009, 6:14 PM
>
>
> To All that responded... THANKS!
> After applying pressure to the tank and using a water soap
> mixture I have located a 2 inch crack in the tank running
> diagonal from the corner of the glass lay-up in the tunnel.
> Its where the glass is bonded onto the tank to hold it in.
> It looks like a stress crack as the non giving glass may
> have pulled on the tank as it flexed. I'm now in
> agreement with Steve in that these tanks should not be
> glassed in but rather fitted in a way that allows some
> movement. Okay too late for me now... It is however in an
> area that I can reach it to repair it either using pro-seal
> or the tap plastics product.
>
> Options:
> 1. I used the messy pro seal to seal my sender unit in the
> top of the tank a few years back and it works well. I'm
> concerned about not being able to compress a patch around it
> or over it though. Maybe once it sets up thats not
> necessary. ???
> 2. The video on the Tap plastics Polyweld Greg
> sent sounds like a better way to go as a permanent patch.
> This one though may require me to cut an additional hole
> behind the access hole and then repair that later. BUT...
> how do I make sure all the fumes are out of the tank after
> draining it so I don't blow myself up :o( trying to
> flame treat the to be repaired area on the tank. Maybe
> continuing to pump air into the tank and allow the fumes to
> eventually evaporate thru the filler cap. Any other Ideas to
> help me avoid burning off any facial hairs are welcome.
>
> Best regards and thanks to all!!
>
>
> Jeff R.
> A258 - N128LJ / Gold Rush 191 hours and down for
> repairs.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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