I couldn't figure out why the containment structure has to be bolted
up there. The chances it will ever need removal are small. The
clearance won't be important if, after fuse top bonding, you take back
flox and two film-prepared bracket lay-ups back there and permanently
affix (remember safety glasses!). To ever remove the thing, take a
Dremel or hack saw blade back there and cut the brackets, so a little
gap there would even help. To reinstall, some epoxy adhesive or flox
and two more little lay-ups.
Regards,
Fred F.
Fergus Kyle wrote:
> ...How then do you cut the pitchstop structure to proper length
> before the top goes on, and how do you ensure that the splash matches proper
> top shape if the top is not attached?
> In the "Upper Elevator Stop" photo, the stop seems to be very
> accurately cut to length and shape of the top interior (accurate apparently
> to the 1/16th inch). I apologize for seeming slow-witted by then it's hard
> to hide the obvious.
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