I just completed this activity and have both splashes now securely laminated to
to the top of their respective aft and pushrod bulkheads.
I put the fuselage top in place and taped a marker at an angle to the end of a
stick and marked the inside top of the fuselage where the pushrod containment
bulhead meets the roof of the fuselage.
Removing the top, I then used plastic packing tape and protected the inside of
the fuselage, and laid up the splash with three ply bid and peel ply. I marked
top of the splash with the line that showed through from the inside of the
fuselage
to assist with later location. (the profile is pretty specific so really
not a problem.)
I then removed the packing tape. I used small pieces of packing tape to hold
the
splash back in place. With my wife standing right there ready for the bonding,
I mixed up some 5 minute epoxy with flox (to fill the gap between the top
of the fuselage and the top of the bulkhead, and I did yet another 'lift and
flip' and put the top back on. Make sure you have trimmed the firewall and have
the front flange of the top positioned properly against the firewall. The
trick is to not use so much tape to hold in the splash that you can't pull it
off when you gently lift the tail end to separate the bonded splash from the top
of the fuselage. Using 3 layers of bid would be the minimum for the splash
IMHO. To thin and it wants to peel the bond loose and is floppy. No need for
clecos.
Layup into the the undeside of the bonded splash after the top is removed
required
putting packing tape against the sides of the bulkhead right up to the splash,
but not on to it. The peel ply side is facing the right direction for laying
up the brackets onto the tape and splash. Then drill the bolt holes first
before removing the splash!!! Otherwise you'll lose your position! knock the
splash loose and trim up the brackets and re-install.
The pitch stop is set right against the now firmly anchored splash sitting on
top
of the bulkhead and if using the 12 mm ply can be bonded directly to the splash
using a weight on the stabalizer so that the counter weight holds the stop
in place.
Cleve Lee
A198 Mono XS
On Sat, 12 January 2002, "Fergus Kyle" wrote:
>
> attn: I guess, Graham S:
>
> This topic was fascinating and productive reading. But I ran into a mental
> snag at one stage and beg clarification.
> The idea is to avoid that difficult bit about flanging the pitch
> stop mechanism to the fuselage top without crawling into a dungoen back
> there. I followed the theme until the 'splash' is laid in the fuselage top
> and the result affixed to the stop before top is glued on.
> I found the top to be floppy and pliable UNTIL it is cleco-ed
> onto the canoe. That is when (I have read) that all assumes untwisted,
> levelled correctness.
> How then do you cut the pitchstop structure to proper length
> before the top goes on, and how do you ensure that the splash matches proper
> top shape if the top is not attached?
> In the "Upper Elevator Stop" photo, the stop seems to be very
> accurately cut to length and shape of the top interior (accurate apparently
> to the 1/16th inch). I apologize for seeming slow-witted by then it's hard
> to hide the obvious.
> Ferg
>
>
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