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RE: bonding in the cockpit module

Subject: RE: bonding in the cockpit module
From: Bob.Harrison <ptag.dev@ukonline.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 12 Jan 2001 09:23:17

Hi! Paul.
Serves me right for jumping in too quickly ! I see from ensuing messages
that it's the module you are fixing in ,not the fuselage top !
Save my notes for when you need it.! (and dream on !)
The tip about the light still applies , I  made sure to omit redux where the
control tubes pass through .
I also had a dummy run , marked out where the redux was needed on the bottom
of the canoe and applied redux to both surfaces . As Bill suggests trowel
excess redux into any gaps , less weight and stronger to do this than deform
the members and need loads of filler on the outside. Also make sure the
aileron actuating plates clear the canoe floor when operated. Have you
fitted the rudder cable pulleys,easier now (Bolt heads behind the pulleys)
Europa won't thank me but have you checked the position of the aluminium
hard point inserts for lift pin locations, in the canoe? Ours were out of
place and when you drill through you are unable to verify that there is
adequate metal around the holes.(much easier to reposition them without the
module in place, believe me I've been there !)
Regards
Bob Harrison G-PTAG
  -----Original Message-----
  From: owner-europa@aztec.houxou.com
  Subject: RE: bonding in the cockpit module


  Hi! Paul.(from a MK l Builder to an XS ......!)
  Make sure the top moulding is pulled well back onto the firewall to ensure
the empenage to fin area is well overlapping . I needed to have a piece of
3/4" ply across the inside of the start of the fin then drilled through the
lot to insert a long piece of 3/16" threaded bar right through to enable the
lot to be tightened
  up together.I put a good smearing of redux on both flanges before mating
together, don't allow the over-riding flange to ride up the register of the
other anywhere, as it makes for lots of filling later.
  Make good use of  a hand held light behind the joint to judge the
thickness of the joint along the whole length of the overlap to ensure there
is a bond over the entire overlap and flanges , don't squeeze all the redux
out . Make an effort to trowel off all excess redux.
  On the spa clearance , my "old man " always said "a miss is as good as a
mile "! There isn't a lot of clearance because I notice mine always only
just clears when we do the rigging.! We have often missed the the starboard
socket with the PORT SPAR THEN IT JAMS AGAINST  THE SAID BOLT HEADS
  BFN
  Bob Harrison  G-PTAG.


    -----Original Message-----
    From: owner-europa@aztec.houxou.com
    Subject: bonding in the cockpit module


    Hoping to bond the cockpit module into the canoe this weekend - with
some trepidation. Anyone got any hits, tips or major disasters to avoid.
Second thing, I did a trial fitting of the wings to the cockpit module the
other day (used the dummy spar to set the bushes etc.) - very relieved to
find it all lines up but how much clearance have folk got between the stbd
spar and the bolts connecting aileron push rods to CS8 - seems awful close.

    regards

    Paul Stewart  #432



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