Hello Bud, I send to you my throttle cable solution operative since 1999
without problem.
When I was made my second or third fly with my europa 145, I have the same
problem, the cables bend into the box !
Also I applied this radical solution. And I used this solution on many
others rotax engines.
If the spring is broken or inoperative, the piano wire performs the
function with great reliability.
Le sam. 2 janv. 2021 =C3- 17:51, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> a =C3=A9cri
t :
> Ian,
> I believe the Europa Club has a paper I did on throttle cable installatio
n
> on their site, it is also at
> https://customflightcreations.com/techniques-articles/ (I don't pay
> google any longer so type in the https://... to find the site through all
> the paying ad customers.) If the cable bends in the throttle box, it is
> generally not a lubrication problem or even a sticky oil cable to sheath
> issue. It is a problem with the cable installation, most likely a kinked
> or bound cable. Maintainers unfamiliar with the Europa often look at the
> cables and are appalled that they are loose and not firmly bound all alon
g
> their route to the carb. In their attempt for neatness, they bind the
> cable(s) and cause them to bind. Builders also fail to get their initial
> throttle box alignment correct to prevent the cable(s) from cleanly
> entering the sheath from the throttle arm. I recently scolded one of my
> clients for allowing a well known Rotax repair facility touch his cable
> routing. The repairman kinked the cables and bound them tightly. It was
> an older Classic (20+ years old), so upon installation of his new cables,
> all worked flawlessly again.
>
> Cables must be anchored and aligned properly on both ends and frankly, th
e
> area in between must be loopy and only lightly affixed to prevent
> interference in the wheel well of the mono.
>
> A new set of cables can be purchased, but still, the running of the
> cables, the alignment in the home made throttle box and fixation to the
> carby must be addressed.
> To supplement my article on "Throttle and choke cable etiquette" attached
,
> please check the following:
>
> Prior to removing the cables to rebuild them to proper spec. one can chec
k
> that the cables are not kinked or tightly bound, the cable binding nuts o
n
> the throttles are lubricated and free to rotate, and the throttle box cab
le
> pivot points on the arm are free to operate. (The only two points
> requiring lubrication are this pivot on the throttle linkage and the box
> cable pivot attachment in my opinion.) Look into the throttle box for
> proper cable alignment. If issues are found, simply removing the
> cable/throttle box to your nice warm workbench and correcting issues is a
ll
> that is needed. I find that if the cable itself is kinked, or unraveled,
> it is best to replace the cables as it is not worth the time. If the cab
le
> will not operate laid out on the bench, it won't work in the plane. If y
ou
> have to tug on a cable in either direction to get it to move, you have a
> damaged sheath. Remember, cable sheaths are just a coil of wire wrapped
> around a nylon tube. If the winding is damaged, it squeezes the inner
> liner, and the cable will not operate freely in the sheath.
>
> For me, the nylon sheath lined cables require no lube over a lifetime.
> (Although I have used a graphite lube to ease customers fears from the
> constant complaints of club members/owners on this subject.) The sheath
is
> lined with nylon, coiled in stainless, then heat shrink over the top maki
ng
> a dirt resistant sheath for the twisted wire cable. My old original
> Classic cables from 1998 (I'm not sure if they were supplied by Europa)
> were damaged by the original builder and were shortened in length, but al
as
> his technique was poor as the cable sheaths were bent hard, the cable end
> cuts were smashed and the cable attachments were misaligned in the thrott
le
> box. So there was much to correct. Note that if supplied with an
> aftermarket or original non lined sheath, they are best replaced as
> stainless steel to stainless steel can lead to a corrosion problem
> eventually. My 2005 supplied Europa cables have been good now for 15+
> years with only a single light lube of a Teflon or graphite that was used
> during inspection (I can't remember what lube I used on the cloth as I wa
s
> more interested in corrosion of the cables here in Florida). The reason
I
> pulled my cables was for an experiment during my rubber replacement at th
e
> 10 year condition inspection, when I also chose to install a throttle
> friction.
>
> Some owner/builders have done solid cables of wire, model airplane nyrod
> push pull cables, and Zenith style solid rod to a welded arm on the
> firewall that allows both throttles to be actuated via a short push pull
> cable. All taking more time, money and effort than simply following cabl
e
> etiquette. Read over the attached paper and check your cables for
> yourself. Correct any issues, make sure it works on the bench with the
> cables straight, then make a large loop and check again. After install i
n
> the aircraft but not yet attached to the carb arm, the cables should mov
e
> freely. If the throttle cables worked on the bench and not in the
> aircraft, you've pinched something. I've found from winter to summer, fr
om
> minus 10C to plus 40C the cables work fine from Canada to Florida so they
> should work for you.
>
> Any cable of twisted wire, solid wire or plastic will do if you can get
> the fittings right on the ends and aligned properly. In experimentation,
> it takes a keen eye for detail, time, patience, analysis and money to
> correct our new designs/mods and get them working flawlessly.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <
> owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of MEE
> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 12:52 AM
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
>
>
> I had to abort a take-off due to poor acceleration and low manifold
> pressure.
> Problem was caused by one throttle cable sticking at just above idle
> while the other at full throttle!
> Even when the cable was lubricated it was still has high friction. Looks
> like I need new cables. Think the cable system needs expandable rubber
> boots to reduce the amount of grit that must contaminate the cable runs.
> Anyone else had this problem?
>
> --------
> Ian McClelland
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
>
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