Fwiw, my classic=99s piano wire broke from fatigue (luckily during run
up). I replaced with teflon coated bicycle brake wire, and its perfect, free
, and trouble free.
Pete
C-GNPZ
> On Jan 3, 2021, at 7:25 AM, davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> Michel, I like your solution! Next time my cables give trouble I shall rep
lace them with piano wire =98facon Auvray=99.
>
> Bon Annee, David Joyce, GXSDJ
>
>
>
>
>> On 2021-01-03 10:25, Michel AUVRAY wrote:
>>
>> Hello Bud, I send to you my throttle cable solution operative since 1999 w
ithout problem.
>> When I was made my second or third fly with my europa 145, I have the sam
e problem, the cables bend into the box !
>> Also I applied this radical solution. And I used this solution on many ot
hers rotax engines.
>> If the spring is broken or inoperative, the piano wire performs the funct
ion with great reliability.
>>
>> Le sam. 2 janv. 2021 =C3- 17:51, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> a =C3=A9c
rit :
>> Ian,
>> I believe the Europa Club has a paper I did on throttle cable installatio
n on their site, it is also at https://customflightcreations.com/techniques-
articles/ (I don't pay google any longer so type in the https://... to find t
he site through all the paying ad customers.) If the cable bends in the thr
ottle box, it is generally not a lubrication problem or even a sticky oil ca
ble to sheath issue. It is a problem with the cable installation, most like
ly a kinked or bound cable. Maintainers unfamiliar with the Europa often lo
ok at the cables and are appalled that they are loose and not firmly bound a
ll along their route to the carb. In their attempt for neatness, they bind t
he cable(s) and cause them to bind. Builders also fail to get their initial
throttle box alignment correct to prevent the cable(s) from cleanly enterin
g the sheath from the throttle arm. I recently scolded one of my clients fo
r allowing a well known Rotax repair facility touch his cable routing. The r
epairman kinked the cables and bound them tightly. It was an older Classic (
20+ years old), so upon installation of his new cables, all worked flawlessl
y again.
>>
>> Cables must be anchored and aligned properly on both ends and frankly, th
e area in between must be loopy and only lightly affixed to prevent interfer
ence in the wheel well of the mono.
>>
>> A new set of cables can be purchased, but still, the running of the cable
s, the alignment in the home made throttle box and fixation to the carby mus
t be addressed.
>> To supplement my article on "Throttle and choke cable etiquette" attached
, please check the following:
>>
>> Prior to removing the cables to rebuild them to proper spec. one can chec
k that the cables are not kinked or tightly bound, the cable binding nuts on
the throttles are lubricated and free to rotate, and the throttle box cable
pivot points on the arm are free to operate. (The only two points requirin
g lubrication are this pivot on the throttle linkage and the box cable pivot
attachment in my opinion.) Look into the throttle box for proper cable ali
gnment. If issues are found, simply removing the cable/throttle box to your
nice warm workbench and correcting issues is all that is needed. I find th
at if the cable itself is kinked, or unraveled, it is best to replace the ca
bles as it is not worth the time. If the cable will not operate laid out on
the bench, it won't work in the plane. If you have to tug on a cable in ei
ther direction to get it to move, you have a damaged sheath. Remember, cabl
e sheaths are just a coil of wire wrapped around a nylon tube. If the windi
ng is damaged, it squeezes the inner liner, and the cable will not operate f
reely in the sheath.
>>
>> For me, the nylon sheath lined cables require no lube over a lifetime. (
Although I have used a graphite lube to ease customers fears from the consta
nt complaints of club members/owners on this subject.) The sheath is lined w
ith nylon, coiled in stainless, then heat shrink over the top making a dirt r
esistant sheath for the twisted wire cable. My old original Classic cables f
rom 1998 (I'm not sure if they were supplied by Europa) were damaged by the o
riginal builder and were shortened in length, but alas his technique was poo
r as the cable sheaths were bent hard, the cable end cuts were smashed and t
he cable attachments were misaligned in the throttle box. So there was much
to correct. Note that if supplied with an aftermarket or original non line
d sheath, they are best replaced as stainless steel to stainless steel can l
ead to a corrosion problem eventually. My 2005 supplied Europa cables have b
een good now for 15+ years with only a single light lube of a Teflon or grap
hite that was used during inspection (I can't remember what lube I used on t
he cloth as I was more interested in corrosion of the cables here in Florida
). The reason I pulled my cables was for an experiment during my rubber rep
lacement at the 10 year condition inspection, when I also chose to install a
throttle friction.
>>
>> Some owner/builders have done solid cables of wire, model airplane nyrod p
ush pull cables, and Zenith style solid rod to a welded arm on the firewall t
hat allows both throttles to be actuated via a short push pull cable. All t
aking more time, money and effort than simply following cable etiquette. Re
ad over the attached paper and check your cables for yourself. Correct any i
ssues, make sure it works on the bench with the cables straight, then make a
large loop and check again. After install in the aircraft but not yet atta
ched to the carb arm, the cables should move freely. If the throttle cable
s worked on the bench and not in the aircraft, you've pinched something. I'
ve found from winter to summer, from minus 10C to plus 40C the cables work f
ine from Canada to Florida so they should work for you.
>>
>> Any cable of twisted wire, solid wire or plastic will do if you can get t
he fittings right on the ends and aligned properly. In experimentation, it t
akes a keen eye for detail, time, patience, analysis and money to correct ou
r new designs/mods and get them working flawlessly.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> Bud Yerly
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@ma
tronics.com> On Behalf Of MEE
>> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 12:52 AM
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
>>
>>
>> I had to abort a take-off due to poor acceleration and low manifold press
ure.
>> Problem was caused by one throttle cable sticking at just above idle whi
le the other at full throttle!
>> Even when the cable was lubricated it was still has high friction. Looks l
ike I need new cables. Think the cable system needs expandable rubber boots t
o reduce the amount of grit that must contaminate the cable runs.
>> Anyone else had this problem?
>>
>> --------
>> Ian McClelland
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fforums.
matronics.com%2Fviewtopic.php%3Fp%3D499940%23499940&data=04%7C01%7C%7C
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> %2Fwww.matronics.com%2FNavigator%3FEuropa-List&data=04%7C01%7C%7C49
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%3D&reserved=0
>> %2Fwww.matronics.com%2Fcontribution&data=04%7C01%7C%7C49e7224047004
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>>
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