Michel, I like your solution! Next time my cables give trouble I shall
replace them with piano wire 'facon Auvray'.
Bon Annee, David Joyce, GXSDJ
On 2021-01-03 10:25, Michel AUVRAY wrote:
> Hello Bud, I send to you my throttle cable solution operative since
> 1999 without problem.
> When I was made my second or third fly with my europa 145, I have the
> same problem, the cables bend into the box !
> Also I applied this radical solution. And I used this solution on many
> others rotax engines.
> If the spring is broken or inoperative, the piano wire performs the
> function with great reliability.
>
> Le sam. 2 janv. 2021 17:51, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> a crit :
>
>> Ian,
>> I believe the Europa Club has a paper I did on throttle cable
>> installation on their site, it is also at
>> https://customflightcreations.com/techniques-articles/ (I don't pay
>> google any longer so type in the https://... to find the site through
>> all the paying ad customers.) If the cable bends in the throttle box,
>> it is generally not a lubrication problem or even a sticky oil cable
>> to sheath issue. It is a problem with the cable installation, most
>> likely a kinked or bound cable. Maintainers unfamiliar with the
>> Europa often look at the cables and are appalled that they are loose
>> and not firmly bound all along their route to the carb. In their
>> attempt for neatness, they bind the cable(s) and cause them to bind.
>> Builders also fail to get their initial throttle box alignment correct
>> to prevent the cable(s) from cleanly entering the sheath from the
>> throttle arm. I recently scolded one of my clients for allowing a
>> well known Rotax repair facility touch his cable routing. The
>> repairman kinked the cables and bound them tightly. It was an older
>> Classic (20+ years old), so upon installation of his new cables, all
>> worked flawlessly again.
>>
>> Cables must be anchored and aligned properly on both ends and frankly,
>> the area in between must be loopy and only lightly affixed to prevent
>> interference in the wheel well of the mono.
>>
>> A new set of cables can be purchased, but still, the running of the
>> cables, the alignment in the home made throttle box and fixation to
>> the carby must be addressed.
>> To supplement my article on "Throttle and choke cable etiquette"
>> attached, please check the following:
>>
>> Prior to removing the cables to rebuild them to proper spec. one can
>> check that the cables are not kinked or tightly bound, the cable
>> binding nuts on the throttles are lubricated and free to rotate, and
>> the throttle box cable pivot points on the arm are free to operate.
>> (The only two points requiring lubrication are this pivot on the
>> throttle linkage and the box cable pivot attachment in my opinion.)
>> Look into the throttle box for proper cable alignment. If issues are
>> found, simply removing the cable/throttle box to your nice warm
>> workbench and correcting issues is all that is needed. I find that if
>> the cable itself is kinked, or unraveled, it is best to replace the
>> cables as it is not worth the time. If the cable will not operate
>> laid out on the bench, it won't work in the plane. If you have to tug
>> on a cable in either direction to get it to move, you have a damaged
>> sheath. Remember, cable sheaths are just a coil of wire wrapped
>> around a nylon tube. If the winding is damaged, it squeezes the inner
>> liner, and the cable will not operate freely in the sheath.
>>
>> For me, the nylon sheath lined cables require no lube over a lifetime.
>> (Although I have used a graphite lube to ease customers fears from
>> the constant complaints of club members/owners on this subject.) The
>> sheath is lined with nylon, coiled in stainless, then heat shrink over
>> the top making a dirt resistant sheath for the twisted wire cable. My
>> old original Classic cables from 1998 (I'm not sure if they were
>> supplied by Europa) were damaged by the original builder and were
>> shortened in length, but alas his technique was poor as the cable
>> sheaths were bent hard, the cable end cuts were smashed and the cable
>> attachments were misaligned in the throttle box. So there was much to
>> correct. Note that if supplied with an aftermarket or original non
>> lined sheath, they are best replaced as stainless steel to stainless
>> steel can lead to a corrosion problem eventually. My 2005 supplied
>> Europa cables have been good now for 15+ years with only a single
>> light lube of a Teflon or graphite that was used during inspection (I
>> can't remember what lube I used on the cloth as I was more interested
>> in corrosion of the cables here in Florida). The reason I pulled my
>> cables was for an experiment during my rubber replacement at the 10
>> year condition inspection, when I also chose to install a throttle
>> friction.
>>
>> Some owner/builders have done solid cables of wire, model airplane
>> nyrod push pull cables, and Zenith style solid rod to a welded arm on
>> the firewall that allows both throttles to be actuated via a short
>> push pull cable. All taking more time, money and effort than simply
>> following cable etiquette. Read over the attached paper and check
>> your cables for yourself. Correct any issues, make sure it works on
>> the bench with the cables straight, then make a large loop and check
>> again. After install in the aircraft but not yet attached to the carb
>> arm, the cables should move freely. If the throttle cables worked on
>> the bench and not in the aircraft, you've pinched something. I've
>> found from winter to summer, from minus 10C to plus 40C the cables
>> work fine from Canada to Florida so they should work for you.
>>
>> Any cable of twisted wire, solid wire or plastic will do if you can
>> get the fittings right on the ends and aligned properly. In
>> experimentation, it takes a keen eye for detail, time, patience,
>> analysis and money to correct our new designs/mods and get them
>> working flawlessly.
>>
>> Best Regards,
>> Bud Yerly
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>> <owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com> On Behalf Of MEE
>> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 12:52 AM
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
>>
>>
>> I had to abort a take-off due to poor acceleration and low manifold
>> pressure.
>> Problem was caused by one throttle cable sticking at just above idle
>> while the other at full throttle!
>> Even when the cable was lubricated it was still has high friction.
>> Looks like I need new cables. Think the cable system needs expandable
>> rubber boots to reduce the amount of grit that must contaminate the
>> cable runs.
>> Anyone else had this problem?
>>
>> --------
>> Ian McClelland
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
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