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RE: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam

Subject: RE: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam
From: Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2021 16:45:46
Ian,
I believe the Europa Club has a paper I did on throttle cable installation 
on their site, it is also at https://customflightcreations.com/techniques-a
rticles/ (I don't pay google any longer so type in the https://... to find 
the site through all the paying ad customers.)  If the cable bends in the t
hrottle box, it is generally not a lubrication problem or even a sticky oil
 cable to sheath issue.  It is a problem with the cable installation, most 
likely a kinked or bound cable.  Maintainers unfamiliar with the Europa oft
en look at the cables and are appalled that they are loose and not firmly b
ound all along their route to the carb.  In their attempt for neatness, the
y bind the cable(s) and cause them to bind.  Builders also fail to get thei
r initial throttle box alignment correct to prevent the cable(s) from clean
ly entering the sheath from the throttle arm.  I recently scolded one of my
 clients for allowing a well known Rotax repair facility touch his cable ro
uting.  The repairman kinked the cables and bound them tightly.  It was an 
older Classic (20+ years old), so upon installation of his new cables, all 
worked flawlessly again.

Cables must be anchored and aligned properly on both ends and frankly, the 
area in between must be loopy and only lightly affixed to prevent interfere
nce in the wheel well of the mono.  

A new set of cables can be purchased, but still, the running of the cables,
 the alignment in the home made throttle box and fixation to the carby must
 be addressed.
To supplement my article on "Throttle and choke cable etiquette" attached, 
please check the following: 

Prior to removing the cables to rebuild them to proper spec. one can check 
that the cables are not kinked or tightly bound, the cable binding nuts on 
the throttles are lubricated and free to rotate, and the throttle box cable
 pivot points on the arm are free to operate.  (The only two points requiri
ng lubrication are this pivot on the throttle linkage and the box cable piv
ot attachment in my opinion.)  Look into the throttle box for proper cable 
alignment.  If issues are found, simply removing the cable/throttle box to 
your nice warm workbench and correcting issues is all that is needed.  I fi
nd that if the cable itself is kinked, or unraveled, it is best to replace 
the cables as it is not worth the time.  If the cable will not operate laid
 out on the bench, it won't work in the plane.  If you have to tug on a cab
le in either direction to get it to move, you have a damaged sheath.  Remem
ber, cable sheaths are just a coil of wire wrapped around a nylon tube.  If
 the winding is damaged, it squeezes the inner liner, and the cable will no
t operate freely in the sheath.  

For me, the nylon sheath lined cables require no lube over a lifetime.  (Al
though I have used a graphite lube to ease customers fears from the constan
t complaints of club members/owners on this subject.)  The sheath is lined 
with nylon, coiled in stainless, then heat shrink over the top making a dir
t resistant sheath for the twisted wire cable.  My old original Classic cab
les from 1998 (I'm not sure if they were supplied by Europa) were damaged b
y the original builder and were shortened in length, but alas his technique
 was poor as the cable sheaths were bent hard, the cable end cuts were smas
hed and the cable attachments were misaligned in the throttle box.  So ther
e was much to correct.  Note that if supplied with an aftermarket or origin
al non lined sheath, they are best replaced as stainless steel to stainless
 steel can lead to a corrosion problem eventually.  My 2005 supplied Europa
 cables have been good now for 15+ years with only a single light lube of a
 Teflon or graphite that was used during inspection (I can't remember what 
lube I used on the cloth as I was more interested in corrosion of the cable
s here in Florida).  The reason I pulled my cables was for an experiment du
ring my rubber replacement at the 10 year condition inspection, when I also
 chose to install a throttle friction.  

Some owner/builders have done solid cables of wire, model airplane nyrod pu
sh pull cables, and Zenith style solid rod to a welded arm on the firewall 
that allows both throttles to be actuated via a short push pull cable.  All
 taking more time, money and effort than simply following cable etiquette. 
 Read over the attached paper and check your cables for yourself.  Correct 
any issues, make sure it works on the bench with the cables straight, then 
make a large loop and check again.  After install in the aircraft but not y
et attached to the carb arm, the cables  should move freely.  If the thrott
le cables worked on the bench and not in the aircraft, you've pinched somet
hing.  I've found from winter to summer, from minus 10C to plus 40C the cab
les work fine from Canada to Florida so they should work for you.  

Any cable of twisted wire, solid wire or plastic will do if you can get the
 fittings right on the ends and aligned properly.  In experimentation, it t
akes a keen eye for detail, time, patience, analysis and money to correct o
ur new designs/mods and get them working flawlessly.  

Best Regards,
Bud Yerly

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> On Behalf Of MEE
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2021 12:52 AM
Subject: Europa-List: Europa XS Mono Throttle cable friction and jam


I had to abort a take-off due to poor acceleration and low manifold pressur
e. 
Problem was caused by one throttle cable sticking  at just above idle while
 the other at full throttle! 
Even when the cable was lubricated it was still has high friction. Looks li
ke I need new cables. Think the cable system needs expandable rubber boots 
to reduce the amount of grit that must contaminate the cable runs. 
Anyone else had this problem?

--------
Ian McClelland


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