Sorry Dave,
Lately half the matronics list is going to junk mail.
The Europa panels are just FRP and expensive. You can buy your own and mak
e them as easy.
The pitot static check is best done by a professional avionics shop. Typic
al cost for us here in Florida is $250.
For quick and dirty checks:
>From the EAA and Bingalis books pull one inch of mercury by mouth (raise th
e altimeter exactly 1000 feet via the static tube. On a stock Europa you c
an pull it at the wing pitot static but it is easier to remove the pitot tu
be and disconnect the static line..
VSI or VVI should show a climb and settle to zero.
ASI should indicate 135KIAS
Altimeter should read 1000 feet and be steady.
If leaking on the static, disconnect the VSI as they do fail.
Next the ASI,
If the altimeter is leaking, get it rebuilt.
Never blow into the static. If unsure, pull a slight vacuum on a line and
check. If nothing moves it is most likely a pitot line. Use very light pr
essure, or a small manometer to pressurize the pitot line to one inch of wa
ter. If the airspeed doesn=92t move, its broke.
I make all my panels to be easily removable. It takes me longer to pull th
e cowl off than pull the panel. With the brakes easy to drop down and the
throttle back, I put a towel on the handles and rotate out the panel.
See other post.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
Sent from Mail<https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for Window
s 10
________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of david park <dpark748@me.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 3, 2018 5:25:37 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Instrument Panel
My advise would be to get a dremel and cut the panel out and replace with r
emovable panels available from Europa!!!!
The three panels pull fwd for access to instruments etc leave sufficient or
iginal panel round the edge to install fixed nuts.
Regards
Dave Park
[cid:946cf8cf-3edc-4d76-93b2-b04fbe8d77d3@namprd02.prod.outlook.com]
> On 3 Oct 2018, at 21:27, Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Cheers Jonathan
>
> Maybe the group might have a better solution to my problem so to save me
what=92s sounds like a horrendous job.
>
> Long story short I bought the aircraft at the start of the year and have
been working through a few tech issues before getting the aircraft permitte
d in Ireland.
>
> The aircraft has both a standard asi and dynon d10 neither of which regis
tered an airspeed during the flight. On stripping down of the route of the
pitot/static plumbing I found multiple kinks and badly made connections so
replumbed from pitot/static port under wing right into the cockpit. Under t
he dash the original pipes connected into a 5 pin festo connector which I
=92m assuming is used to split to feeds to the dynon and standard asi.
>
> Does anyone know a way of identifying how to test the asi or effectively
identifying the old pipes still in place to figure out which is the static
and which is the pitot without damaging the instruments ?
>
> Kind Regards
> Eoin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 3 Oct 2018, at 19:50, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>>
.uk>
>>
>> Eoin, I hope you're small-built like me. This is just about the worst jo
b that I've ever had to do, including the removal of engine and gearbox fro
m an original little Morris Mini car. In fact it's worse than that because
if your panel doesn't have the removable facia described by Mike, then you'
re going to be "in a world of pain"!
>>
>> The "binnacle" or console is attached to the firewall by screws inserted
from the engine bay side, except for a few which are inserted from the coc
kpit side above the parcel shelf. Every time (6 times or so in 21 years) th
at I've done the ghastly job, I swear that the next time I won't replace it
until I've modified the console with removable facia. But then I look at w
hat's involved, chicken out and reinstall it telling myself that it'll neve
r need to come out again. Idiot!
>>
>> I recommend that you save yourself the frightful task of having to rub a
way scratches from the inside of the windscreen by first making a thick-ish
cardboard sheet, shaped to fit inside the screen and tape it with masking
tape to the surrounding framework and/or upholstery. This is a top tip, bel
ieve me! Another top tip is to remove the two control sticks from their soc
kets and then lay cushions ( I use my seat cushions ) into the well so that
they provide at least some protection for your back.
>>
>>> From here on in, you're on your own. Each time that I've done it I slid
e myself head-long down to the rudder pedals and lie face upwards. You'll p
robably need first to have removed whatever you can which projects up from
the central tunnel and/or to have padded it to protect the under side of th
e console as you slide it out. A good light is a must!
>>
>> YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED ANOTHER PAIR OF HANDS TO HELP YOU AT VARIOUS ST
AGES AND I SUGGEST THAT THEY SHOULDN'T BELONG TO YOUR WIFE. BAD LANGUAGE WI
LL ALMOST CERTAINLY FLOW PROFUSELY!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> https://nam02.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=http%3A%2F%2Fforum
s.matronics.com%2Fviewtopic.php%3Fp%3D483566%23483566&data=02%7C01%7C
%7C01c5de7cc75c4df59ca708d629a2595e%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435aaaaaaaaaaaa%7C1%
7C0%7C636742174602061108&sdata=bmjd%2BehLasbKZbnHiwgc0e%2F%2FdnnW%2FH
3OxbaW6I0RvFE%3D&reserved=0
>
>
|