My advise would be to get a dremel and cut the panel out and replace with re
movable panels available from Europa!!!!
The three panels pull fwd for access to instruments etc leave sufficient ori
ginal panel round the edge to install fixed nuts.
Regards
Dave Park
> On 3 Oct 2018, at 21:27, Eoin Maguire <eoinmaguire@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Cheers Jonathan
>
> Maybe the group might have a better solution to my problem so to save me w
hat=99s sounds like a horrendous job.
>
> Long story short I bought the aircraft at the start of the year and have b
een working through a few tech issues before getting the aircraft permitted i
n Ireland.
>
> The aircraft has both a standard asi and dynon d10 neither of which regist
ered an airspeed during the flight. On stripping down of the route of the pi
tot/static plumbing I found multiple kinks and badly made connections so rep
lumbed from pitot/static port under wing right into the cockpit. Under the d
ash the original pipes connected into a 5 pin festo connector which I=99
m assuming is used to split to feeds to the dynon and standard asi.
>
> Does anyone know a way of identifying how to test the asi or effectively i
dentifying the old pipes still in place to figure out which is the static an
d which is the pitot without damaging the instruments ?
>
> Kind Regards
> Eoin
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On 3 Oct 2018, at 19:50, JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:
>>
uk>
>>
>> Eoin, I hope you're small-built like me. This is just about the worst job
that I've ever had to do, including the removal of engine and gearbox from a
n original little Morris Mini car. In fact it's worse than that because if y
our panel doesn't have the removable facia described by Mike, then you're go
ing to be "in a world of pain"!
>>
>> The "binnacle" or console is attached to the firewall by screws inserted f
rom the engine bay side, except for a few which are inserted from the cockpi
t side above the parcel shelf. Every time (6 times or so in 21 years) that I
've done the ghastly job, I swear that the next time I won't replace it unti
l I've modified the console with removable facia. But then I look at what's i
nvolved, chicken out and reinstall it telling myself that it'll never need t
o come out again. Idiot!
>>
>> I recommend that you save yourself the frightful task of having to rub aw
ay scratches from the inside of the windscreen by first making a thick-ish c
ardboard sheet, shaped to fit inside the screen and tape it with masking tap
e to the surrounding framework and/or upholstery. This is a top tip, believe
me! Another top tip is to remove the two control sticks from their sockets a
nd then lay cushions ( I use my seat cushions ) into the well so that they p
rovide at least some protection for your back.
>>
>>> =46rom here on in, you're on your own. Each time that I've done it I sli
de myself head-long down to the rudder pedals and lie face upwards. You'll p
robably need first to have removed whatever you can which projects up from t
he central tunnel and/or to have padded it to protect the under side of the c
onsole as you slide it out. A good light is a must!
>>
>> YOU WILL DEFINITELY NEED ANOTHER PAIR OF HANDS TO HELP YOU AT VARIOUS STA
GES AND I SUGGEST THAT THEY SHOULDN'T BELONG TO YOUR WIFE. BAD LANGUAGE WILL
ALMOST CERTAINLY FLOW PROFUSELY!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=483566#483566
>
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