Bud, details of post Mod 78 Spar cup(s) would be most welcome. Wing root fit
tings bonded on yesterday, I removed the aileron cranks as I need to trim th
em and have my countersunk bolts ready as Dave Anderson and you describe. Ne
xt job after removing wings and drilling + bolting the fittings is to counte
rsink the Aileron cranks. Any advice on doing this in sittu would be welcome
d . Regards
Alan Twigg
Sent from my iPhone
> On 10 Feb 2014, at 01:23, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Just a note on sink rates in 419PL:
> =46rom my 1000 miles in the MG (copies in Europa Flyer or my website www.c
ustomflightcreations.com accessories and tips look under techniques).
> Sink Rates observed: Engine off, prop feathered from one test flight:
>
> 90 Kts 400fpm
>
> 80Kts 300fpm
>
> 70 Kts 300 fpm
>
> 65 Kts 250 fpm
>
> 55 Kts 350 fpm trimmed nearly full aft.
>
> Since Mod 78 makes the spar the same height from root spar to the tip of t
he spar, it should not be a major problem normally. Careful construction on
ly thickens the spar about 1/16 of an inch. I am sorry Dave, that your tank
was put in too low. If the interior is not hard to remove, consider moving
the tank up. Yes its a mess but in a week it could be done. I know it is e
asy for me to say, as one mistake and the cost of a new tank gets figured in
makes the job a real knuckle biter.
>
> I do not do tech support for Europa any longer, but if you come to Sun 'n
Fun (Site 33 this year) you can look over what we have done to ensure the Mo
d 78 spar clears controls, includes a spar cup/support for rigging ease, and
I'll show how to remove the crosslink bolts and add countersunk screws whic
h preserves all the structure. If you can't make the show, then email me of
f line and I'll send you what I have.
>
> I supplied Europa with drawings on modifying the flap push rod to clear th
e spars as that is a real problem on the mono. Trigear is a piece of cake.
Keep the spars thin and it will work.
>
> The extra 100 pounds the glider wing adds can make the plane a single seat
only aircraft unless you built light. It does move right along if you go r
eally high, but below 10,000 MSL it is basically an economical 120 knot bird
. You can really stretch the range with the long wings.
>
> Once the health becomes a concern, it is also quite nice to fly as a glide
r with no medical.
>
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
>
>
>
>
> > From: deford.dave@gmail.com
> > To: europa-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Motorglider wings
> > Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 06:03:17 -0800
> >
>
> >
> > Ron,
> >
> > We did switch back and forth between short and long wings, accumulating 9
0
> > hours on the long wings, before we heard about the Mod 78 structural
> > problems and quit using them.
> >
> > The long wings would not fit into the fuselage of N135TD with the taller
> > spar tangs of Mod 78. Building according to the current instructions 15
> > years ago (modified shortly thereafter), our tank is set low enough that
the
> > "shelf" at the top front interfered with the short wing spar tangs. I
> > heated the tank locally to deform it enough to pass the starboard tang, a
nd
> > then had to do it again for the slightly taller long wing spars. We woul
d
> > have to cut open the cockpit module and replace the tank in order to gai
n
> > enough clearance for the modified spars, which we are not prepared to do
.
> > Since the long wings are of no use to us, we would be happy to sell them
at
> > just about any price to someone who could use them (after applying Mod 7
8,
> > of course).
> >
> > Dave DeFord
> > N135TD
> >
> > > It sounds like you switch back and forth between short and long wings
> > > on your XS Mono.
> > >
> > > Did you do Mod 78? If so how did you get your flap push-rod to clear
> > > post mod 78 spars, airbrake cable and pitch cross tube?
> > >
> > >========================
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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>
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