Thanks Bud for the detailed explanation. Also David.
Rgds
Jimmy
On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 8:30 AM, DAVID JOYCE <stranfaer@btinternet.com>wrot
e:
> Bud
>
> The replacement stainless exhausts were closer to =A31200 don't know what
> they are now, original steel systems were fabricated in Tibshelf Derbyshi
re
> I believe.
>
> rgds
> DJ
>
> *Sent to you from David Joyce
> www.eastmidsspas.com
> *
>
> *From:* Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com>
> *To:* europa-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Monday, 12 August 2013, 1:25
>
> *Subject:* Re: Europa-List: Gusset plates
>
> Jimmy,
> Some time ago, the factory went to another exhaust manufacturer CKT Aero
> engineering and they did a good job of remanufacturing our exhaust with
> thicker, better stainless steel, better muffler supports and less stress
on
> the mandrel bends of the pipes. CKT also makes systems for most of the
> Rotax powered kits in Europe. Too bad we all had the older exhaust sold
to
> us before which cracked at the exhaust, pipes and everywhere for mostly
> harmonic reasons . The only problem with the CKT exhaust was the springs
,
> which were standard motorcycle carbon steel type, now he makes a stainles
s
> steel spring to try to get better longevity. CKT stands behind their
> products and has taken care of me.
>
> Note: In certified aircraft we put RTV or high temp red silicone on the
> springs to reduce vibration harmonics. I run a piece of safety wire
> through the spring and pull it up loosely. This keeps any fatigued sprin
gs
> from becoming FOD.
>
> Some History:
> The 912S harmonics cause the exhaust to move laterally a bit and that wil
l
> fatigue crack in the bend of the exhaust of any system and if the springs
> were made tighter, the muffler supports cracked. We all know how bad the
> aluminum heat shield was. Also the 914 had some real problems but over
> time, metal bends went to welded seams and we have been trouble free. Th
e
> original 912 exhaust was kept as light as possible, but the vibration and
> harmonics caused fatigue cracks at very low time. My first experience wa
s
> with Ira Rampil's exhaust which cracked in about 4 places. Chris at CKT
> replaced the old exhaust with his and we went through some teething pains
> with it but not too bad except for spring failures on the right side of t
he
> engine. Contact Europa for the new exhaust system and clear up your
> problems, but expect it to cost about $1000 US or about 660 UK Pounds.
>
> Bud
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* James Kelly <europajimkelly@gmail.com>
> *To:* europa-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, August 10, 2013 6:07 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Europa-List: Gusset plates
>
> Hi Bud,
> It appears that there's always problems with Europa exhaus
t
> pipes cracking near the manifold, any ideas why this is so prevalent ?
>
> Jimmy
>
> On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 9:34 PM, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> **
> Tony,
> If you have a gap but the plate is parallel or close to parallel to the
> tube you can put a small joggle in the steel. However then your bolt hol
e
> to edge distance becomes critical on the wood glass gusset. If there is
> still good edge distance you'll be OK.
>
> Another method is to put a filler strip to take up the gap of steel. Jus
t
> a short strip with a couple holes in it match drilled will do.
> It should only add a bit of time and be more than secure.
>
> All one is looking for is to keep the tube stable.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com>
> *To:* europa-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Saturday, August 10, 2013 2:00 AM
> *Subject:* Europa-List: Gusset plates
>
>
> Gidday,
> I am having trouble with the gusset plates. I used the 12 ply supplied an
d
> shaped it accordingly, except I have about a 5 mm gap from ply to tie rod
.
> The cloth will take up approx half of that. So, I bonded on the ply and
> then layed up the 4 plies of BID, which in essence thickens the ply by 8
> plies. So, now that its all done I have a 2-3 mm gap +/- and the gusset
> plates do not sit parallel. For the other side I lightly clamped the plat
es
> together as the BID cured, in situ, and they were covered in Canauba Wax
> for a release agent. So, that side is OK, but the first side I have a
> problem I am hoping I can use Redux and Flox to pack out both the gap
> between rod and ply, and also to create a flat bed for the gusset plates.
I
> am wondering this would be considered an acceptable way to fix things? I
> know Redux and Flox is a pretty tough mix and the loads in this region I
do
> not consider will challenge what I am doing, as something would have
> already broken, like a wing!
> Regards
> Tony p; Features Chat,
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>
> _p; generous bsp; title
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