Hello Graham
"> the thing that bothers me, epoxy will not bond reliably to stainless
> steel. That's why the bushes are prone to coming loose.
> The only way we can get any secure bonding is by mechanical means. IOW
> saw cuts, drilled dimples etc."
Our accelerated stabilators had one of the inner bushings debond the first
time fitting the TT.
We took the "Europa Mutilation" route, went at the bushings from the
bottom, cut grooves and rough sanded, first ply was Redux/BID and
Redux/Flox covered in peel ply, and subsequent layers Aeropoxy.
I garbage picked a thin wall Carbon Fiber oar from a rowing skull and
connected the 2 bushings. Same procedure, Redux first ply, then Aeropoxy.
My outer bushing got drilled right through the bottom by the accelerator
with the oversize drill used for drain, thus the pip pin would not grab.
Lakeland sent me next size pip pins, but I canned the whole idea of pip
pins. I am using solid stainless cap head Allen shoulder screws
(www.mcmaster.com type in stainless shoulder screws, then socket). I
turned a threaded base which I knurled and got it stuck when reinforcing
the outer bushing joint.
For the top, I turned a smooth ID wall cup knurled on the OD, just large
enough to accept 2 seals and got it stuck. The top receptacle and bottom
threaded base is stuck well, in event the outer bushing debonded, this
would hold the stabilators in place.
I have no drain on bottom, just can see the head of cap screw that is
flush with stabilator. The 2 seals I am certain would prevent the screws
---From ever backing out (also from water ingress), but I installed mini ball
nose plunger to catch a grove on the screw (incorporated in the top
receptacle)
Ron Parigoris
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