Yes. I've installed the Whelen 600 Strobe/Nav/Position combo on mine. This
light takes care of strobe, nav, and position lighting in one neat package.
There might be a better way, but what I did seems to work well. I made a
template out of the outline of the tiplight itself out of 3mm ply. I used a
hole saw to cut a hole in the template where the socket for the nav bulb is
first, then just traced around it's perimeter. I drew a center line
lengthways on the template for alignment purposes later. Then, standing the
wings side by side on sawhorses, leading edge down, I traced a line with a
pencil parallel to the bottom surface of the wing on the wingtip itself. 2
1/8th " as I recall measuring from a straight edge aligned on the bottom
surface of the wing to the centerline drawn on the tip. Then, I found the
maximum of the curve of the tip using a helper and string using joining line
of the tip and the wing as a reference and marked where that point crossed
the other line with a pencil. Go out equidistant on both leading and trailing
edges, measured from the tip/wing joint, and get it so the string just
touches and mark it with a pencil. This point is where you want to mount your
light with the strobe bulb centered where these two lines meet, the tip curve
maximum. I aligned the template's center line with the centerline leading
edge to trailing edge. I then taped the template in this position and
carefully traced a line around it's perimeter, keeping the pencil
perpendicular to the tip surface and removed the template. If you're careful
about keeping the pencil perpendicular this will give you a line that is
nearly equal to the size of the light's perimeter. Using a Dremel with a
"whiz wheel" I rough cut the shape of the template out of the tip. Then, I
used a sanding wheel on the Dremel to slowly open the hole up to near the
size of the traced line. With tip light in one hand and Dremel in the other I
kept working the hole out until I was satisfied that the tip fit the hole so
as to be flush at it's base with the wingtip. Then, I took a piece of 3mm ply
scrap large enough to cover the hole completely, covered it with clear
packing tape (release agent) and taped the ply onto the wingtip with masking
tape, several pieces, really secure it. Then, I layed up 4 layers of 'bid'
on a 45 large enough to cover the hole with about 2" over hang all around. Of
course you've scuff sanded the inside of the wingtip and wiped it with
Acetone. Flox the joint where the ply meets the tip on the inside and lay in
the 'bid' so that it covers the ply, the flox and is even and straight with
the cord line of the tip. You can peel ply it if you want. When it cures
remove the 3mm ply and you'll have a nice flat spot on the tip to mound the
light. Total time - About 3 hours. You've probably already seen the conduit
write up for the wire chase, so I won't go into that.
Regards,
John Lawton
Dunlap, TN
A-245
|