thanks...go faster stripe is a great idea.
As for gel coal thanks for warning ...wash with soap or solvent?
On Jan 6, 2015 5:59 PM, <davidjoyce@doctors.org.uk> wrote:
> William, You can of course stick a go fast stripe over the join line,
> but if your 'amour propre' insists on a perfect finish then fill any low
> areas and sand it all down to a perfect finish. You should in any case sand
> all the gel coat surface down to complete matness without the smallest bit
> of refective surface visible, to give the optimum key to whatever paint
> system you plan to use. One word of warning on which: The release agent
> used in the original gel coat mould is a strong allergy inducer. Make very
> sure you have washed all gel coated surfaces very thoroughly before you
> start sanding them and wear a good mask. You might be totally immune to
> normal fibreglass dust but get caught out by the gel coat dust which is a
> more sinister animal!
>
> Regards, David Joyce, G-XSDJ
>
>
> On 2015-01-06 22:31, Fred Klein wrote:
>
>
> On Jan 6, 2015, at 11:03 AM, William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> I have a visible join the upper half lip being slightly proud as a
> result sliding down over the bottom half. The joint is good and the
> difference is slight.
>
> What is the normal practice for the visible join line between the fuze
> halves? Does one have to sand down to the epoxy or can one fill on top of
> sanded the gel coat?
>
> Will...I had the opposite problem...i.e., my lower half was proud, and
> problem solved by adding spacers at each cleco and thickening the Redux
> bed. For your case, i'd of course remove the gel coat along the edge of the
> upper half and rough up the gel coat on the lower half; I don't think it's
> necessary to remove the entire gel coat in order to add the requisite
> filler. Perhaps others w/ more knowledge than I will make other
> recommendations.
>
> Fred
>
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