Thanks Bud,
I have a point tip too and I realise now the benefits of a chisel tip. I'll g
et one when I get home to Aussie. I understand the heat control better, as I
have had the insulation shrink away from the joint. The chisel should make t
he heat application more controlled. Now to find some 63/37 solder. I tried a
t home and it seems hard to get, but I believe a jewellery supplier might be
able to help me. Evidently they use different ratios of solder to work up t
hings, as the underlying solder has a higher melting point. Clever. I've wat
ched the odd YouTube vid, but am now off to watch some more.
Thanks again.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
> On 24 Jun 2014, at 4:16 pm, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Tony,
> Back from a working vacation. To your questions:
>
> I use the 60/40 (tin/lead) solder mostly. Any lower tin content and after
a few years funny noises happen as the solder joint ages. Higher tin is br
ittle, but looks good on copper pipes. Since we don't do copper pipes, stic
k to the recommended solder by the experts. 60/40 takes a bit more heat, co
ols slower and can cause a cold joint if you move the wire while cooling. 6
3/37 melts and cools nicer. It cools faster, and allows you to hand solder w
ithout using a helper or set of clamps to keep everything solid. Use rosin c
ore not acid core solder period. For circuits the 2% silver solder is recom
mended but not necessary. Heat is a bit higher so use patience.
>
> See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ for a great lesson on too
ls then go to part 2 for soldering D subs. Also Google proper soldering tec
hnique to prevent overheating wires, solder inspection for cold solders, etc
. Pace Worldwide has a number of texts and now videos on techniques.
>
> As far as wicking, if you heat a wire (copper or mil spec) and get it very
hot back under the insulation, when the solder is put to the wire, it will r
apidly run up the wire and under the insulation making a very stiff wire. I
f the wire is flexed or allowed to vibrate, it tends to be brittle and will c
rack. If the proper technique is used to heat the wire just enough to melt t
he solder you should be OK. I will admit, I allow my solder iron to get to p
roper temp, clean the tip and put a small drop of solder on the tip. Then I
dip the wire on to the hot solder gun and allow the drip of solder to begin
to wick up to just short of the insulation. If the insulation is melting o
r you can't hold the insulation because the wire is too hot, you've got too m
uch heat. Practice and flex the wire then cut the wire and look. Work on y
our technique. In a few minutes you will be an expert.
>
> Practice and see what works best as far your equipment and technique. If t
he solder looks clean, bright and smooth, it will normally be a good joint.
I use a round tip on my 20 watt Weller and it has a problem with heating an
ything but a point source like on a circuit board. A chisel tip on my varia
ble heat Weller is better for most of our work.
>
> Enjoy yourself,
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
> > From: tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com
> > Subject: Europa-List: Soldering Advice
> > Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2014 12:01:54 +1000
> > To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >
m>
> >
> > Gidday,
> > I read somewhere about using a different ratio solder from what seems to
be more commonly available. Can someone confirm the ratios pleases
omething like 70/30. Thanks.
> > Regards
> > Tony Renshaw====================
=
> >====================
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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