Nev, Donald, and others having tri gear concerns.
Nev is right that the gap is really not that much of a concern
especially at 5-8 mm. Organizing the project for efficiency of work
comes with practice.
The adjustment of the height of the fuselage to gear plane is one
excellent way to make and adjustment to the fit. Just don't get too
carried away, keep it close to the vertical distance in the book, which
keeps the tail from being too low (nose gear higher means banging it
more often) or too high which increases the camber angle making tire
wear increase.
I do bend the flanges a bit to allow me not to have to use as much
Redux. Then just bond it in.
Unlike Nev, I prefer to glue in the cleaned and dimpled metal sockets
first and allow to cure, then put in Rib one the next day. If working
alone, I put in both rib ones and let them partially cure, getting a
long coffee break. If working with an assistant, we return when the
ribs are firm and apply Aeropoxy or Ampreg flox to fill the gaps at the
walls and smooth our Redux job a bit and apply more Redux to the leg
face for a good bond and follow with the number one layups. If we are
making good time, we lay on rib two with Redux then take a quick lunch
break. We come back and while the Redux is a bit sticky but the rib is
in firmly, we lay in more flox and glass it up. Then I allow it to cure
with a bit of peel ply. That makes for a really long day though.
However, if you're not on with your glassing MOJO, as the kids say, then
I do rib two the next day. Of course you can gather that the one and
two ribs are carefully cut to a tight fit and ready to install before
hand. In a perfect world, the next day I do the trimming of the three
and four ribs and install them. Your back will really need a break when
done. Then take the gear out and glass in the bottom.
If working alone, and if the top is on already, work gets slowed down a
bit, so one rib a day is normally the rule. It is getting winter time,
so heating of the project is necessary so it also tends to slow the
project a bit.
>From start to finish, one week to get the plane level and set, ribs in
and legs on. That leaves the next week to get the wheels and brakes in
and operating, and the plane rolling. Week three is needed for the
wheel pants and such. Then you need a much deserved break but only a
short one, as there is more to do. Getting the monowheel hole closed up
and figure how to get a lower access hole installed and fuel lines
cleaned up and accessories in that big old cockpit module hole.
Regards,
Bud Yerly
----- Original Message -----
From: Neville Eyre<mailto:neveyre@aol.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2012 3:57 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation
Hi Donald,
1/2'' to 5/8'' gaps betwen the socket flange and the outer skin is not
unusual, I could never work out where the variation came from ?
Most important is the ST 70 dimension.
Then ensure the track is true with the legs clamped to an angle
straight edge.Take measurements from tailplane torque tube ends to check
this.
Then ensure the horizontal datum of the angle aligns with the
aircrafts horizontal datum [ tailplane torque tube / wing spar bushes ].
Then check the lateral position from the aircrafts centre line [ also
check the positive camber of the axle shafts and adjust [ worsen] the
side to side positioning to get the camber of the shafts nearer to each
other.
Forget about closing up the gap between the socket flanges and the
fuselage skin.
If you can close up the gap [ dropping the fuselage ] without
buggering up any of the other parameters, well and good, otherwise go
for it and use a thick Redux pad in the gap. I have slipped in some
plywood shims to bulk out the gap if it as large as you describe [ Redux
is expensive, slivers of wood will be free !]
Other things I do different, the lay up of the socket to Rib 1, don't
smear Redux on the socket and do the lay up with Ampreg, do a HOT Redux
lay up in 1 ply of Bid, 2'' onto each side of the Rib around the socket,
peel ply and let cure. Then do the lay ups as per Manual.
Do a hot Redux lay up on the outer face of the socket flange, peel ply
etc, before doing the 2 Bid lay up on to the skin. Do the hot Redux lay
ups onto plastic sheet, wet out well, then slap it on like an
elastoplast !
Ampreg doesn't stick too well to steel, and I don't like messing with
two different epoxy systems going wet on wet ?
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: fireflier <fireflier@btinternet.com>
To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 1:04
Subject: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation
<fireflier@btinternet.com<mailto:fireflier@btinternet.com>>
Hello
Today I have been busy trial fitting my gear sockets. but I have got a
problem
and wondered if anyone has experience this during building and how they
have
overcome it?
After taking my time setting everything up as per the build manual I
inserted
the gear legs and sockets into the holes clamping the axle's in position
against
angled bar with the axle center line on fuselage station 70 and the axle
end
36.75' from the fuselage center line. With all this set up the socket
flanges
are approx 13 - 15 mm of the fuselage.
I tried altering the fuselage underside to ground height but this made
very
little difference to the distance between socket flanges and the
fuselage. I
managed to get the gap down to approx 5-8mm by reducing the fuselage
underside
to ground height to 395mm, this is very different to the 413mm quoted in
the
build manual.
I have attached some photos showing the gap between sockets and fuselage
and
also the position of the socket tubes within the baggage bays when
inserted.
Any comments or solutions to my problem would be much appreciated.
Many thanks for taking the time in trying to help me find a solution to
the
problems I'm experiencing.
Kind regards
Donald
--------
Fireflier
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