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Re: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation

Subject: Re: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation
From: Donald Cameron <fireflier@btinternet.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2012 07:50:17
Hi all

Many thanks for all your replies much appreciated and has put my mind to res
t that all appears normal with the installation of my tri gear sockets. 

Not had a chance to go back and re check everything again but will check ove
r everything another few times before taking the plunge & bonding in the soc
kets.

Many thanks for all the comments & suggestions on doing the rest of the proc
ess as well, they are all very useful and gives me different options to comp
lete the tri gear installation. 

Kind regards
Donald


Sent from my iPhone

On 25 Nov 2012, at 20:07, "Bud Yerly" <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:

> Nev, Donald, and others having tri gear concerns.
>  
> Nev is right that the gap is really not that much of a concern especially a
t 5-8 mm.   Organizing the project for efficiency of work comes with practic
e.
>  
> The adjustment of the height of the fuselage to gear plane is one excellen
t way to make and adjustment to the fit.  Just don't get too carried away, k
eep it close to the vertical distance in the book, which keeps the tail from
 being too low (nose gear higher means banging it more often) or too high wh
ich increases the camber angle making tire wear increase.
>  
> I do bend the flanges a bit to allow me not to have to use as much Redux. 
 Then just bond it in.
>  
> Unlike Nev, I prefer to glue in the cleaned and dimpled metal sockets firs
t and allow to cure, then  put in Rib one the next day.  If working alone, I
 put in both rib ones and let them partially cure, getting a long coffee bre
ak.  If working with an assistant, we return when the ribs are firm and appl
y Aeropoxy or Ampreg flox to fill the gaps at the walls and smooth our Redux
 job a bit and apply more Redux to the leg face for a good bond and follow w
ith the number one layups. If we are making good time, we lay on rib two wit
h Redux then take a quick lunch break.  We come back and while the Redux is a
 bit sticky but the rib is in firmly, we lay in more flox and glass it up.  T
hen I allow it to cure with a bit of peel ply.  That makes for a really long
 day though.
>  
> However, if you're not on with your glassing MOJO, as the kids say, then I
 do rib two the next day.    Of course you can gather that the one and two r
ibs are carefully cut to a tight fit and ready to install before hand.  In a
 perfect world, the next day I do the trimming of the three and four ribs an
d install them.  Your back will really need a break when done.   Then take t
he gear out and glass in the bottom.
>  
> If working alone, and if the top is on already, work gets slowed down a bi
t, so one rib a day is normally the rule.  It is getting winter time, so hea
ting of the project is necessary so it also tends to slow the project a bit.

>  
> =46rom start to finish, one week to get the plane level and set, ribs in a
nd legs on.  That leaves the next week to get the wheels and brakes in and o
perating, and the plane rolling.  Week three is needed for the wheel pants a
nd such.  Then you need a much deserved break but only a short one, as there
 is more to do.  Getting the monowheel hole closed up and figure how to get a
 lower access hole installed and fuel lines cleaned up and  accessories in t
hat big old cockpit module hole.
>  
> Regards,
> Bud Yerly
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Neville Eyre
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 25, 2012 3:57 AM
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: tri gear socket    installation
> 
> Hi Donald,
> 1/2'' to 5/8'' gaps betwen the socket flange and the outer skin is not unu
sual, I could never work out where the variation came from ?
> Most important is the ST 70 dimension.
> Then ensure the track is true with the legs clamped to an angle straight e
dge.Take measurements from tailplane torque tube ends to check this.
> Then ensure the horizontal datum of the angle aligns with the aircrafts ho
rizontal datum [ tailplane torque tube / wing spar bushes ].
> Then check the lateral position from the aircrafts centre line [ also chec
k the positive camber of the axle shafts and adjust [ worsen] the side to si
de positioning to get the camber of the shafts nearer to each other.
> Forget about closing up the gap between the socket flanges and the fuselag
e skin.
> If you can close up the gap [ dropping the fuselage ] without buggering up
 any of the other parameters, well and good, otherwise go for it and use a t
hick Redux pad in the gap. I have slipped in some plywood shims to bulk out t
he gap if it as large as you describe [ Redux is expensive, slivers of wood w
ill be free !]
> Other things I do different, the lay up of the socket to Rib 1, don't smea
r Redux on the socket and do the lay up with Ampreg, do a HOT Redux lay up i
n 1 ply of Bid, 2'' onto each side of the Rib around the socket, peel ply an
d let cure. Then do the lay ups as per Manual.
> Do a hot Redux lay up on the outer face of the socket flange, peel ply etc
, before doing the 2 Bid lay up on to the skin. Do the hot Redux lay ups ont
o plastic sheet, wet out well, then slap it on like an elastoplast !
> Ampreg doesn't stick too well to steel, and I don't like messing with two d
ifferent epoxy systems  going wet on wet ?
> Cheers,
> Nev.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: fireflier <fireflier@btinternet.com>
> To: europa-list <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sun, 25 Nov 2012 1:04
> Subject: Europa-List: tri gear socket installation
> 
> 
> Hello
> 
> Today I have been busy trial fitting my gear sockets. but I have got a pro
blem 
> and wondered if anyone has experience this during building and how they ha
ve 
> overcome it?
> 
> After taking my time setting everything up as per the build manual I inser
ted 
> the gear legs and sockets into the holes clamping the axle's in position a
gainst 
> angled bar with the axle center line on fuselage station 70 and the axle e
nd 
> 36.75' from the fuselage center line.  With all this set up the socket fla
nges 
> are approx 13 - 15 mm of the fuselage.
> 
> I tried altering the fuselage underside to ground height but this made ver
y 
> little difference to the distance between socket flanges and the fuselage.
  I 
> managed to get the gap down to approx 5-8mm by reducing the fuselage under
side 
> to ground height to 395mm, this is very different to the 413mm quoted in t
he 
> build manual.
> 
> I have attached some photos showing the gap between sockets and fuselage a
nd 
> also the position of the socket tubes within the baggage bays when inserte
d.
> 
> Any comments or solutions to my problem would be much appreciated.
> 
> Many thanks for taking the time in trying to help me find a solution to th
e 
> problems I'm experiencing.
> 
> Kind regards
> Donald
> 
> --------
> Fireflier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read this topic online here:
> 
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=388820#388820
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Attachments: 
> 
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/port_axle_494.jpeg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_axle_172.jpeg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_socket_position_in_baggage_ba
y_539.jpeg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/starboard_leg_socket_188.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/port_socket_position_in_baggage_bay_886
.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/port_leg_socket_744.jpeg
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> p://forums.matronics.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> title=http://www.buildersbooks.com/ href="http://www.buildersbooks.com
">www.buildersbooks.com
> href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com";>www.homebuilthelp.com
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ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List";>http://www.matronhref
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> 
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