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Europa-List: Re: Cooling issues, once again!

Subject: Europa-List: Re: Cooling issues, once again!
From: rparigoris <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 15:49:28

Hi Frans
My 2 cents from someone not yet flying.
First off I have an XS with Monowheel with standard stainless firewall and 
intercooler
on starboard side, both hinder cooling. 
Here is some information. Not in any sort of organized order:
**Gilles did a beautiful job making a cowl for his tiny 914 powered craft. No 
two
holes even in front, only one cooling air baffle intake. I think he has his
radiators stacked one behind other. anyway here is some links:
http://contrails.free.fr/engine_aerodyn_radia_en.php
http://contrails.free.fr/tunnel_en.php
http://contrails.free.fr/diap/phpslideshow.php?directory=diapo_capot_if
He says very sucessfull install.
**With Rotax 914 it is best to make sure you are not running too lean. Using a
carbon monoxide tester is an awful good solution. Not only can you measure each
cylinder when making war emergency power (115%), you can also verify 100% and
85% is OK too. Throwing a little gas on the fire in fact helps keep things cool.
I have incorporated a rich switch that activates the enrichment solenoid
at will, I suspect 85% on up will run cooler when you enrich a little (computer
does it for you over 100% power, best diode isolate your input so as to not
hurt TCU). If you are interested will give full details. Again mixture is 
critical
not running too lean at high power setting, mogas with alcohol will run leaner
than mogas without alcohol, thus even if 914 was factory jetted, I question
just how well the jetting is with the stuff coming out of mogas pump. Main
jet, jet needle and needle jet control 85% on up mixture, main jet mostly at
full throttle. I am going to run a bit rich and use mixture control to lean to
my liking.
**Constipation is a big problem, Ira mentioned using an airspeed indicator to 
see
where high and low pressure area is. You can read here what I am doing:
http://www.europaowners.org/forums/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=28737
I want to be able to cool in worst case scenario, and will warm things up with
an oil thermostat and an air plug in the intake of radiator duct (reversed 
direction
fan).
To unconstipate  going to drop aft part of cowl ~3/4 to 1", and widen the exit
area of cowl a bit. I will also use two model aeroplane electric motors to 
exhaust
through gills on ground and in climb. Will use a model aeroplane folding
propeller  fan in radiator duct to help pressurize duct on ground and in climb.
It will be reversible to hinder cooling (and hopeful drag) in cruise. You don't
need much amps to cause an awful clog.
**I am going to get my radiator coated with a coating that supposedly increases
efficency.
**I will have my exhaust coated with a coating that is supposedly time tested 
from
Rotax research arm, limits some heat going into cowl. If I want to limit more
heat going into cowl will wrap exhaust, but makes for harder inspection. BTW
Gilles wrapped his turbo.
**I am installing Rotax cooling air baffle. One problem with the baffle is upon
shut down it tends to hold in more heat than without the baffle. With my fans,
will just let run on low upon shut down.
**Using something like an automobile windshield washer pump and spray head 
misting
radiators with water could keep you cool till you hit on something that works.
I have a 2004 Volvo V-70 turbo and it has two, 3 stream spray head mister
that does a pretty good job, you would only need one. This is completely off
topic, but if you ever get someone tailgating you when driving and there is no
need for someone to be doing this, spray your windshield washer, I mean 
continuous,
yes it will cost you a refill but will make the tailgater back away (way
annoying to tailgater) and gratifying to you. Have a friend do this to you to
see just how well it works.
**Instead of guessing put some temp measuring instruments in various locations
FWF, once you get a baseline you can see how you are doing. That goes too for
measuring pressures.
**As far as dropping oil radiator, think an awful good idea (or move it), 
remember
Europa radiator is a lot deeper than other MFGs use. 
**My decision to go route of tweaking supplied cowl/cooling system instead of 
major
rethink, is not only time required (ask Paul about speed of such a project),
but distinct fooling probably needed after the fact that  it may never be
to my liking before I lose interest and ability.
Kudos to Gilles to bringing his cowl/cooling to fruition!
Ron Parigoris


Read this topic online here:

http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=300164#300164



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