Ron,
On Mar 2, 2009, at 19:19, rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote:
> **** Check voltage at battery. I forget exactly the voltage a
> Odyssey wants, but 14.4 or 14.7 sounds bout right. My LR3C regulator
> has an adjustable setpoint where the Ducati does not, nor does the
> internal Flight Crafter alternator. I am pretty certain you can
> madify pretty easily the Flight Crafter alternator to an external
> regulator, or do yourself a favor and get rid of the flight crafter
> alternator and get a SD20S. You may want to sense the aft battery
> voltage with your regulator??
>
Yes, my next step will be to get behind the baggage bay with a VOM to
see what voltage is present there. Probably have to tie the tail to
the fence again so I can run up enough to make operating voltage. The
13.8 volts was observed at around 3500 RPM when testing on the ground
during taxi.
May convert to external regulator from B&C if necessary, but need to
see what's happening when at battery first. Eventually, would also
like to dump the Ducatti regulator and go with a Schicke regulator
---From Germany. If I can get them to sell me one.
Eventually run the external and internal regulators in parallel as
Bob Nuckolls has discussed.
> ****In case you are using factory set up throttle friction
> arrangement:
> I studied Europa arrangement for throttle friction, and no matter
> how hard you tighten, you can not get enough friction. The reason
> being is you can only get a finite amount of friction between metal
> washers and nuts. I welded the nuts to the washers, and used those
> metal high temperature locknuts. needed to thread the bolt all the
> way down as well. Once complete when tightening you are getting
> desired friction between plastic washers and large area washers.
>
> See picture #11:
> http://www.europaowners.org/modules.php?set_albumName=album256&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
>
I'll see what I can do with a wrench before I start tearing into the
mess. Interesting that there seems to be plenty of friction without
the engine running. As soon as the engine starts, the throttle
creeps. Must be something to do with the added vibration tugging on
the cables.
> > Need to set a better idle stop on the throttle lever. Too easy to
> > pull the throttle lower than 2000 RPM while on the ground.
>
> ****2000RPM?? I know you went to class and they probably told you to
> probably set idle at no lower than 1850 or 1800RPM, but according to
> Nev, set idle at 1450 max or you will float into next county. You
> don't need to idle when taxing so low, but upon landing, you want
> ability to tame down according to him. You can tune engine so 1450
> static is pretty smooth, but when landing it will be higher. You
> should not rely on throttle stops on carb for idle, need stops on
> throttle lever and adjust cable, then set carb stops just as a mini
> setpoint. Bend the stops like you describe and idle will be rough
> because you will have out of sync carbs at idle.
>
Ya, 1800. Misspoke. Still, need a stop as the RPM goes below 1000 if
I tug too hard on the throttle while braking. Left hand on stick,
right hand on throttle & brake. Gets interesting when the brake isn't
cooperating. Easy to pull too hard on throttle as well. Right,
probably need the throttle lever stop around 1450 on the ground as it
yields the necessary 1800 RPM at flight idle needed to descend at a
decent rate.
> **** Good luck! Sounds like a load of fun
>
It's getting there slowly. I was almost enjoying it at the end of the
flight.
Check six,
Bob Borger
Europa Kit #A221 N914XL, XS Mono, Intercooled 914, Airmaster C/S
http://www.europaowners.org/N914XL
Aircraft Flying!
3705 Lynchburg Dr.
Corinth, TX 76208
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