>><< one only needs to attach a new
cross piece of an appropriate size on which to connect the drive cables to
the new wheel. I suppose the main and probably only question is what size
the cross piece should be >>
To answer that question one needs to know what turning limits the wheel is
supposed to have. The stops I understand are set for +/- 60 deg but he
factory mod. can only reach about half this.,If so how do we retrieve the
turning circle ?<<
As you surmise, not so simple. The springs appear to pull the tailwheel
across at the limits. It all seems to work in practice, so Jon Tye tells
me, Francis Donaldson had no problems either. I would have expected
slightly strange feel on the pedals, but this doesn't appear to be the case
with the factory mod.
I first made a new steering arm, (fitted to the top of the original
tailwheel assembly) with the steering drive cable attachments 1/2" outboard
of the rudder cables. Connected up to the tailwheel horns it felt most
awkward when the springs were preloaded. I didn't like the excessive sping
tension around the straight ahead position so I started again and fitted a
quadrant to the tailwheel. This now gives even tension and even steering
loads on the cables and feels smooth across the whole range. It also gives
me the full 120 deg deflection. With everything inside except the two
cables running alongside the new spring arm to the quadrant it looks neat.
Hope to be ready to test by the end of the week. I feel confident Francis
will let me. (;-)
>>The 25 mm aft offset of the tailwheel horn from the vertical axis doesn't
seem to do anything useful <<
It is there to give more leverage on the active cable at the limit of the
steering range.
Graham
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