Just a thought out loud Fred,
Reflecting back on how the original classic was made, you know
Fred...Cutting down the skin to fit the flange would work (provided you
cleaned up the edge, and reglassed over it. It would give you a flat
surface and prevent those stupid rudder hinge screws from being on an
angle... Of course you could cut the flange as well I suppose.
It will take you more time,
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:54 PM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mounting the Rudder
Craig and Bud...thanks for the replies...and I agree that life is too
short!
Yes I understand about cutting the joggles where they conflict w/ the
rudder swing and/or hinge leaves.
I had been thinking of the rudder flange as being/functioning just
like the aileron flanges...w/ the ailerons, of course, the idea is to
have the surface of the flange in the same plane as the surface of the
wing at the rear closeout...not so easy to do w/ the rudder and the
abutting surface of the fin on the starboard side.
My point is that because of the difference in thickness between the
rudder flange (where one hinge leaf sits) and the sternpost + fin skin
(where the other hinge leaf sits)...the starboard surface of the rudder
will not be in the same plane as the surface of the fin...it will be
offset by whatever the difference in thickness of the two components.
I don't see that as necessarily being a problem...especially if one
can split the difference and end up w/ the planes of fin skin and rudder
on both sides being offset equally.
What I didn't understand was whether the goal was to keep the
starboard side of fin and rudder in one plane...or split the difference?
Bud...what I'm taking away from your response is to NOT cut out the
sternpost flange to provide a seat for the hinge leaves, and the planar
issues I describe are unimportant, as long as everything is straight and
true.
Fred
On Apr 4, 2009, at 7:35 PM, ALAN YERLY wrote:
Fred,
It is as Craig said. Only remove the area where the dumb joggle
juts out and interferes with the hinge.
The lower section is very thick and if you did not clamp your stern
post in tight, it tends to be 3/16 of an inch thick.
I just fill in the rudder area and blend. Life is too short.
Cutting the stern post would weaken the area somewhat, but proper
reapplication of plies would make a significant reduction in the
thickness.
Just a thought.
Bud
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klein<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>
To: europa-list@matronics.com<mailto:europa-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 8:06 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Mounting the Rudder
<fklein@orcasonline.com<mailto:fklein@orcasonline.com>>
...just as an aside, the concept of "trial fitting"...the time and
the
number of repetitions required...is something I had no real
appreciation for at the beginning of my Europa adventure...
Regarding the rudder, I notice that the flange which receives the
hinges is significantly thinner than the assembly of the molded FG
vertical fin along with the starboard flange of the sternpost, an
assembly which also receives the rudder hinge leaves.
The manual talks about relieving the starboard flange assembly
locally
for the "hinge pivot" but sez nothin bout removing enough of the
thickness of the assembly in such a way which would allow for the
fin
and starboard rudder surfaces to be in the same plane, unless one
were
to add a significant amount of filler.
I'm tempted to remove portions of the starboard flange of the
sternpost just a tad larger than the area of the hinge leaves;
then
add and overlap onto the sternpost the 2 layers of BID upon which
will
rest the hinges.
Please (anyone) advise if doing this is not a good thing...or
alternative methods for dealing with what must be an issue with
every
XS.
Thanks,
Fred
A194
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