On 24/07/2015 22:18, Alan Carter wrote:
> <alancarteresq@onetel.net>
> Hi Greg. This is becoming a big problem, I can see the
> panel voltmeter move slightly as I increase power, but
> you are right its not maintaining my battery. With the
> volt meter across the battery at cruise power its only
> 12.8v. Now we come to fixing it, sodding built in
> intricate mag/alternator on the back of the engine, I
> was expecting a bolt on Alternator replacement unit,
> insert the shaft and tighten up the 4 bolts , JOB DONE,
> same as the a tyre change on bloody main wheels, have
> to unlock and unbolt the disc to change a tyre, Took me
> longer to do the wire locking than it did to fit the
> new tyre. WHY ??
>
> Anybody repaired the Alternator on the 914.
i am going to offer my 10 cents worth
These problems are why you need to have an ammeter AND a
voltmeter to give sufficient information. Ammeters can
either show current in and out of the battery (with a -30
0 +30 type scale), or measure the current out of the
alternator (0 +30 scale). In and out of the battery is
more useful.
And i go further and say that digital meters only sample
maybe 5 times a second. You need analogue meters with
pointers. Without my analogue ammeter I would not have
known that my charging system was fluctuating from 2 to 10
amps on a 5 cycles per second basis.
I tried 4 new rectifier/regulators and they were all the
same. Apparently they had changed the design ! I put a
Schicke regulator on and all was well. I did try a used
but older R/R and it was fine as had been my original.
Electrics are really simple but you have to go back to
first principles and understand what is actually happening.
The stator on the flywheel is very reliable. The wiring
and R/R are not. I would do comprehensive checks on the
wiring and the R/R (and maybe the rest of your electrics)
befor eeven considering fiddling with the stator.
Is the body of your R/R earthed ?
Richard Holder
aka anrman :-)
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