Hi All,
No one spotted my deliberate mistake in my earlier posting, re the interfer
ence fit of the pins.......a typo....
Should have read as 0.0007'' undersize holes in the torque tube, so not a j
ob for the local blacksmith !
I was talking to someone about Bud's cooling the pins system when it dawned
on my I had missed a zero......
Cheers,
Nev.
-----Original Message-----
From: Neville Eyre <neveyre@aol.com>
Sent: Thu, 18 Oct 2012 22:26
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
Hi Alan,
Can't believe LaaLaaLand won't let you put Inspection Panels in as per the
Manual ?
If you have no panels back there at all, installing some as directed in the
relevant Chapter won't be a ''Mod'', just bringing you airframe in complia
nce with what has been approved ?
The small spy hole lets you see in there, the larger access hole is in the
correct position for you to get your arm in, folded round the corner and ab
le to work on the torque tube / trim items.
I would be tempted to do it, get it signed off by an Inspector, raise a Wor
ksheet and make an entry in the aircraft's Log Book, at the same time as do
ing the pin work.
On next years Permit Renewal Form, in the ''any repairs / work carried out
since the last Permit'' question, list the Pin repair work and the addition
of inspection panels as per Chapter 23, P 3,4,5 ?
The torque tube CAN be got out by working down the ''tunnel''.
As you have noted, support the rear fuselage with a padded trestle. Fill th
e baggage area with foam / cushions to the height of the seatback / D panel
hole so you can ''surf'' in and out. If you have the Classic fuel filler,
take the hose off and plug the tank inlet.
Get cushions and carpet offcuts in the rear hull so you don't point load th
e skin with elbows etc, 3 or 4 layers of carpet / underlay should do. Unbol
t the pitch pushrod containment tower and remove, should be 8 bolts / nuts
holding it to the hull / roof, and 2 on the wooden cross piece [ 3/8'' & 1/
4'' spanners].Weight the tailplanes aft down and tie the stick forward to p
ark the mass balance weight up in the roof. Surf aft and unbolt the mass ba
lance arm, 2 bolts / nuts [3/8''&1/4''] and pushrod, 1 bolt / nut [1/2'' &3
/8'' ] from the horn. Bung the arm out and lay the pushrod in the hull. Pad
under / over the pushrod so any body weight on it doesn't hurt it.Also pro
tect the two glass lay up brackets in the hull for the tower, fill between
with stiff foam so they don't get broken.
Pad your self up from the hull with cushions so you adopt the ''Superman''
position, with your arm outstretched in front of you, you will have to hold
yourself up with the palm of your hand while you are straightening the spl
it pin and pulling it out, pointed nose pliers and gently used cutters are
needed to pull / curl the split pins out. Start with the outer pins first.
Pull the drive pin out with Mole Grips.
You can now rotate the entire torque tube to allow better access to the rem
aining 2 split pins.
Mark everything as to its position, I put a red blob inside the bottom of t
he port end on the main tube [ paint or nail varnish ] this won't get knock
ed off at the Machine Shop. Mark all else with a indellable marker pen, ie
Port / Stb TP12, TP 10 collars, with both the writing as to where, and a li
ne though the lot so it can go together on the bench back in the same way.
The red nail varnish on the Port TP12 in a place that won't get knocked off
is a good plan.
Cool lighting in there is needed, so not a 100 watt lead lamp ! and a fan b
lowing in helps.
Could take 3 to 4 hours of sweating and swearing to get it out, bit longer
to put it back.
Tools needed. Imperial spanners [ wrenches for those in the US] & Imperial
sockets [ 1/4'' , 3/8'' , 1/2''] needle nose pliers, Mole [Vise] grips, si
de cutters, copper / hide hammer, a selection of punches, magnetic bowl [ t
o put the bolts / nuts in when you are in there, to stop them escaping ] an
d a swear box. I have the cranked arm / long pushrod ratchet spanners which
help to reach the bolt heads. To get a spanner on the nuts [1/4'' & 3/8'']
I have B&Q plastic13mm double pipe clips [ as used to mount central heatin
g pipes] to bolt the other end of the spanners to, which spring on to the t
wo 1/2'' tube arms [ you can't get both arms up there at the same time ].
Entrust the assembly to a good Machine Shop to drill / ream to suit the O/S
pins.
Fitting is the reverse of dismantling, only more difficult ! Hard bit is ge
tting the new pins aimed to go in and come out the other side ! I am workin
g on a clamp / aiming / thumbscrew / press gizzmo at the moment, watch this
space.
-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Carter <alancarteresq@onetel.net>
Sent: Wed, 17 Oct 2012 21:03
Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mod 73
Thanks Neville.
honed the LAA today ref. New Inspection Hole.
asically No,
s i,m in the UK its new dowels and clamps approved by LAA.
o i have to find a small person to climb down inside the tunnel after havin
g
emoved the mass balance weight.
assume this is the easiest way to get at the pins, as you can see them.
bviously with the tail propped,and all the panels off for light and air.
f i go about it this way.
ow long to get it out., and do you see any other problem,
egards
lan
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