Ian,
On 08/11/2012 10:52 AM, G-IANI wrote:
> How about an article for the Europa Flyer? It would be nice to know how you
> achieved the near impossible ("I can see it, I can touch it, but not at the
> same time") installation of the bell-crank assembly in a completed aircraft.
That would not be too much trouble, but I didn't make any pictures of
the installation.
> If it seems possible for normal mortals (not Dutch) I can add it to the
> instructions.
One very important thing: I had already installed a vent opening in the
sternpost to receive a 2" scat hose connected to the cabin. I made this
connector removable with 3 anchor nuts in the flange. This 2" opening in
the sternpost appeared to be handy for many things; if I ever wanted to
take the elevator push rod out I could do it via this opening, but it is
also handy for visual inspection of the tunnel from the rear of the
ship, it just adds another angle to look at things. Now it came in handy
for installation of mod 77. For the most part I could use it as a peek
hole while working through the standard hatch, and I also used it to get
a flexible drill extension in to drill the required holes.
Because I think it is impossible to do mod 77 without such an opening in
the sternpost I would propose to create this opening first. You could
install it at the approximate height where the push rod for the rudder
will pass through, and later put a cover on the opening with a hole in
it for the push rod. This way it is also much easier to determine where
exactly the opening for the push rod should be. And if you are not happy
with the result you just make a new cover; instead if you have to make
the hole in the sternpost you only have one shot at it and it will
likely end up larger than necessary.
> The parts list, on pages 1& 2, should be correct so please let me know if
> you have spotted any errors.
The confusion was mainly on part of the rivets. Not only in the docs but
I also received a confusing set of rivets, including the dreaded
AN470-AD4-10's. I also received too many cotter pins, too many cable
ends, 4 very long AN525 bolts for no purpose. Oh and there is no mention
in the document about the connection of the rudder end of the push rod.
I received an EUR001 safety washer for it, the manual says to attach it
similar as the other end, but as the rudder end has two lips instead of
one the eye-bolt can't go anywhere anyway. I just put some AN416L
washers on both ends between the lips.
I would also like to see a different way to attach the push rod to the
rudder, as it is very difficult to tighten the nut on the AN4-bolt via
the rudder gap. Maybe just a bolt with a cotter pin through it would do?
Anyway, you can't access it with a normal socket, and with a spanner the
clearance is not enough to make a sufficient turn. I ended up using two
ratcheting spanners but just one "click" is all I can get, so it takes
hours to tighten the nut. (And no, you can't connect the push rod to the
rudder first, as there is no way you can handle two spanners through the
hatch to tighten the other end afterwards (I can get only one hand in it
at the same time). Now I think of it: Maybe an anchor nut on that metal
plate would make things easier, instead of the nut and bolt.
Oh, and I discovered that the push rod is just as heavy as the rest of
the assembly. Is there a reason why this is from steel instead of
aluminium? We used aluminium for all the other controls in the ship (it
looks like the aileron push rod is the same diameter but then in
aluminium), so why has this one to be from heavy steel?
> I have already added a reference to refinishing the base of the rudder to
> the latest revision.
Great!
Frans
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