Karl,
>The problem is with the EIS, only why did it coincide with a battery move ?
It shouldn't, unless something else changed.
Ok, so the focus is on the Grand Rapids unit. I don't know much about the
unit itself.
What is the model number? Could you steer me to information on it, so that I
might find out more about it?
Not knowing anything about the GR unit, here are some general ideas (all
measurements taken with the engine off and master on).
1. Check supply voltage and ground connections to the remote measuring
system (if there is one). You know, the box that sometimes exists under the
cowl with all the sensor wires running to it.
2. Check supply voltage and ground connections to the EIS unit, itself.
3. Check if there are any 'sense' lines that need to be connected that
have become open. (Leave this one for later, until after looking at the
units documentation).
#1 and 2 above can be checked with a handheld meter set to volts. Red probe
to (+ supply) and Black probe to (- supply) on the EIS and repeated for
remote measuring box.
If all is ok so far, you can now check that the ground and power connections
are valid and stable, i.e.. not getting partial power or a partial ground
through another device that isn't the battery.
1a. Verifying that the ground is stable and valid: Black probe on handheld
meter(set to volts) to the battery ground post. Red probe to the negative
supply (GND) on the EIS. Repeat for the box under the cowl.
Both readings should effectively be zero. If not, it will show a connection
problem to the ground of the unit.
2a. Verify positive Supply is stable and valid. Red probe on handheld to
the battery positive terminal. Black probe on the handheld to the VCC/Supply
on the remote measuring box.
Repeat for EIS. Again, both readings should effectively be zero, since a
zero reading will show up the correct connection to the battery (readings
taken across the wire). Any measurements producing more than a few
millivolts (maybe 10's of millivolts) are suspect. If invalid reading, it
will show a bad supply connection.
Note that if the voltage measurements in #1 and #2 gave the full battery
voltage, then 1a and 2a will probably be zero, unless something is changing
dynamically.
I hope some of this makes sense,
Greg
P.S. Is the old battery ground wire separate from the new ground wire? If
they are not connected to each other but still in place, try shorting the
two together to see if the readings go back to normal. NOT + to - or VCC to
ground for goodness sakes, unless you want to see a lot of sparks! Just
connect new ground to the old ground, and the new vcc to the old vcc. You
might try this one first, since it is easier. If the old battery wires are
taken out, then never mind.
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
Sent: Thursday, July 29, 2010 2:28 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Voltage reading of 25V
Greg,
The problem is with the EIS, only why did it coincide with a battery move ?
I checked the voltage in the panel and everything looks fine with the main
system.
The EIS gives good readings with the engine off. Thde only anomaly is the
voltage which says 11.0, when it should be 12.5.
When I start the engine the readings go haywire: oil temp is below of what
is possible, pressure is 99, cht is 900C. After switching the EIS off and on
a few times the readings are good. But then the numbers start bouncing
around again. Of course Grand Rapids are closed for Oshkosh until Monday,
and I am not sure what to do.
Any other ideas ?
Karl
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