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RE: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative

Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
From: Karl Heindl <kheindl@msn.com>
Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 21:49:00

Rob,

You seem to know a lot about this. But would it be possible to apply to an 
installed torque tube, i.e. would the platers be able to work with my 
fuselage on a trailer ?

Regards,

Karl


>From: "Rob Housman" <rob@hyperion-ef.com>
>Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
>To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
>Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 12:48:46 -0700
>
>
>In re: Teflon (tm)
>
>Do an advanced search in Google for all of the word "electroless nickel
>teflon" and you will get many hits for shops that can deposit electroless
>nickel with particles of Teflon(tm).  This coating will be the most
>compatible with the nickel plated torque tube and have the best lubricity.
>
>Best regards,
>
>Rob Housman
>Irvine, California
>Europa XS Tri-Gear
>S/N A070
>Airframe complete
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Karl Heindl
>Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 11:57 AM
>To: europa-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
>
>
>Hi Bill and Sue,
>
>Some builders pointed out a potential corrosion problem with my choice of
>aluminum. There are other choices. George Powell obtained a steel tube from
>a builder in Germany, and whoever supplies the TP5/TP6 to Europa would
>obviously also be able to supply a longer cut.
>I like the idea of a Teflon coat on the TP4, but wouldn't have a clue on 
>how
>
>to apply it.
>I am not really concerned about the corrosion issue. The torque tube is
>prone to corrosion anyway, when moisture is present. I have seen the
>corrosion on the exterior of other Europas, and if the exterior corrodes
>then you can be sure that the tube's interior is corroded as well, unless
>the necessary steps were taken before assembly .
>I always apply a good coat of lithium grease, and the tailplanes should be
>pulled off at least twice a year for a n inspection. I never had a problem
>in that area.
>
>Removal of TP5:
>
>I tried it the hard way by making a micro oven inside an aluminum tube,
>using a 20W halogen bulb and an oven thermometer with a remote probe for
>accurate temperature control. The thermometer had an upper display limit of
>200 degrees, and that was not hot enough to soften the redux I had used as
>an adhesive. I have now seen another oven thermometer with a much higher
>limit, but I have discarded that technique, unless I wanted to remove the
>TP6.
>
>Using the same tube, and with the inside opening sealed with a 
>heatresistent
>
>material (felt chair glides), I applied a good dose of heat with a
>blowtorch. The tailplane is in an upright position, so that no heat finds
>its way into the foam area. Using a narrow kitchen knife I probed the
>adhesive on the outside of the TP5.  When the redux had softened enough I
>removed the heat and cut around the TP5 with the same knife, which had a
>serrated edge and I was using it like a saw.
>For the removal of the tube you need a locking pair of longnose pliers. 
>Lock
>
>it onto the edge and slowly remove the thing with a turning motion. You may
>have to cut away a tiny bit of the plywood rib (2 x 5mm) to make room for
>the pliers.
>
>Now having said all that, I suggest you ignore the two techniques above.
>Next time I would simply use the knife  and heat it with a blowtorch before
>cutting into the adhesive.
>I didn't do any damage to the foam.
>
>Installing the new TP5:
>
>You need a small flashlight so you can see exactly what is inside the
>tailplane.
>Do a trial fit of the new tube and see if it butts right up against the 
>TP6.
>
>If there is any adhesive on the edge of the TP6, then don't disturb it, but
>grind a piece out of the edge of the long tube.
>I had to do that on both sides.
>Once you have a satisfactory fit, mark the tube where it needs to be cut
>off. I used a hacksaw and belt sander to do the necessary trimming.
>Now take the tailplane and do a trial dry fit on the aircraft.
>Remove the new TP5.
>Use a narrow long spatula to apply floxed epoxy to the foam walls and over
>the old adhesive. The flox should be fairly wet, and you need only coat the
>first two thirds of the hole.
>Put a liberal coat of neat epoxy on the tube exterior and insert it slowly
>with a turning motion.
>The tailplane is in the horizontalposition, and at the halfway mark remove
>the surplus flox which has been pushed ahead of the tube. Remove more flox
>again when the tube is fully inserted.
>Now take some time to remove alltrace of adhesive inside the tubes. I used
>rags dampened with acetone, on a long stick. I believe that vinegar can 
>also
>
>be used, if you are concerned about foam damage.
>That is about it. Mount the tailplane on the torque tube to ensure perfect
>alignment of the two tubes. If the alignment is not perfect, then adjust by
>applying pressure at the tailplane tip in different directions until the 
>TP4
>
>slides in all the way. Make sure also that it was well greased.
>After 4-5 hours of curing pull the tailplanes off again, just to make sure
>that there is no bonding going on in case some more epoxy has seeped out of
>the gap onto the TP4.
>Then push it back on and leave overnight.
>
>Hope that helps,
>
>Karl
>
>
> >From: Bill and Sue <bill.sue@orcon.net.nz>
> >Reply-To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >To: europa-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: Europa-List: Mod 73 alternative
> >Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:55:56 +1300
> >
> >
> >Yes I would be interested as I have not done mine yet .
> >
> >Mono XS
> >ZK CHV
> >914 Airmaster
> >
> >Rgds
> >
> >Sue & Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >Karl Heindl wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>My original plan was to replace both TP5 and TP6 with a single tube.
> >>After removing the TP5 I realized that there was no point at all in
> >>removing the TP6. It is only necessary to ensure that it cannot move
> >>inboard, which would then allow the TP12 to disconnect from the 
>tailplane
> >>etc. etc.
> >>I simply replaced the TP5 with a longer alu tube from ACS, part number
> >>03-37900. This butts right up against the TP6, and there is no way this
> >>can ever move inboard. The tube is made of 6061 T6 aluminum.
> >>Advantages:
> >>A straightforward mod.
> >>No cutting into the tailplane.
> >>No misalignment problem with TP5 and TP6.
> >>A permanent solution. ( assuming that there was a problem in the first
> >>place.)
> >>If anyone is interested I can give more details on how I did it.
> >>
> >>Cheers,
> >>
> >>Karl
> >>
> >>_________________________________________________________________
> >>The next generation of Hotmail is here!  http://www.newhotmail.co.uk
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>__________ NOD32 2607 (20071022) Information __________
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________
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