Thanks for your input William, sounds encouraging.
Just looking at my engine manuals, I dont understand why the return pipe has
to be attached so close to the water pump inlet. It would seem that anywhere
in the return line would have the same result. Cutting the pipe where it
runs along the top of the engine would be much easier and would be far less
messy.
Anyone know of a good reason why this wont work.
Presumably the other end of the circuit is connected somewhere between the
expansion tank and the radiator inlet connection. Or is it between the top
return manifold and the expansion tank (probably higher water pressure at
this point).
Does anyone have a copy of the installation instructions that I could have.
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Mills" <combined.merchants@virgin.net>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Carb Icing
> <combined.merchants@virgin.net>
>
> Hi Carl,
> Mine's a 912 Classic, but I didn't remove the engine. I removed the pipe,
> cut it, inserted the tee and pipe and then put it back. Fiddley, but
> doable. My heaters have done about 600 hrs without any problems and give
> much confidence.
> Good luck,
> William
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Carl Pattinson" <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Carb Icing
>
>
> <carl@flyers.freeserve.co.uk>
>>
>> I totally agree with the bit about paying Skydrive to fit the carb heater
> modules.
>>
>> Draining the water system is trivial. Take off Air filter (you would have
> to
>> do that anyway to get the carbs off). Take off water filler cap. Put bowl
>> underneath bungey. Be ready to move bowl.
>>
>> OK so far
>>
>> Use Stanley knife to cut the pipe
>> at the back of the engine just below the flywheel cover (and THAT is an
> over
>> description of a flimsy bit of plastic that does not keep water out of
>> the
>> flywheel housing !). Make a decisive cut. Water p*sses out, into bowl
> which
>> you move to catch as much as possible to avoid having to clean it up off
> the
>> floor. (You won't be re-using it !)
>>
>> Unless I have read this wrong heres another reason I dont want to attempt
> this. On the original Classic engine assembly, there is virtually no space
> between the firewall and the back of the engine (my engine dosent have the
> plastic cover that you mention). It would be damn near impossible to make
> the cuts that you describe without removing the engine and unless the
> engine
> breaks I dont intend to take it off.
>>
>> If I have got this wrong, let me know.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Richard Holder" <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
>> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Carb Icing
>>
>>
>> >
>> >> From what I have been told the Skydrive is difficult to fit and really
>> >> requires a hydraulic press to force the heater unit inside the carb
> body. I
>> >> wonder how many have been split/ damaged in the process.
>> >>
>> >> Does anybody know if Skydrive offer a fitting service. I would be
> concerned
>> >> that I might be picking up the cost for a new carb unit if anything
> went
>> >> wrong.
>> >
>> > I came to the same conclusion as the carbs were definitely not round
> enough
>> > to even hold the heater on a thou or two while being put into the vice.
> In
>> > the end, rather than risk a 400 or more carb (or two !) I sent them
>> > back
> to
>> > SkyDrive and they fitted them for 15. OK the postage added another 30
> but
>> > I considered it money well spent !
>> >
>> > In fact my recommendation is that you take your carbs off and send them
> to
>> > SkyDrive and order the heaters and their fitting at the same time. That
> way
>> > you don't pay for an extra leg of the journey for the heaters. I am
>> > sure
> it
>> > only took them 15 minutes and I am sure you could go there and have it
> done.
>> > If I had realised how expensive the postage was (18 from me to them) I
>> > would have driven up there !
>> >
>> > Like many things someone who has done 50 such pressings will be more
> aware
>> > of the limitations and the level of force required. I didn't, so it was
>> > worth the extra 50.
>> >
>> > Draining the water system is trivial. Take off Air filter (you would
> have to
>> > do that anyway to get the carbs off). Take off water filler cap. Put
> bowl
>> > underneath bungey. Be ready to move bowl. Use Stanley knife to cut the
> pipe
>> > at the back of the engine just below the flywheel cover (and THAT is an
> over
>> > description of a flimsy bit of plastic that does not keep water out of
> the
>> > flywheel housing !). Make a decisive cut. Water p*sses out, into bowl
> which
>> > you move to catch as much as possible to avoid having to clean it up
>> > off
> the
>> > floor. (You won't be re-using it !)
>> >
>> > After inserting the t-pieces and replacement of the heater connected
> carbs,
>> > fill up the water and bleed the pipe between the heaters as specified
>> > in
> the
>> > instructions. And Bob is your mother's brother !
>> >
>> > :-)
>> >
>> > Richard
>> > Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
>> > Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
>> > Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
>> > SG12 8SH email : richard.holder@avnet.co.uk
>> > Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
>> > PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
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