I totally agree with the bit about paying Skydrive to fit the carb heater
modules.
Draining the water system is trivial. Take off Air filter (you would have to
do that anyway to get the carbs off). Take off water filler cap. Put bowl
underneath bungey. Be ready to move bowl.
OK so far
Use Stanley knife to cut the pipe
at the back of the engine just below the flywheel cover (and THAT is an over
description of a flimsy bit of plastic that does not keep water out of the
flywheel housing !). Make a decisive cut. Water p*sses out, into bowl which
you move to catch as much as possible to avoid having to clean it up off the
floor. (You won't be re-using it !)
Unless I have read this wrong heres another reason I dont want to attempt this.
On the original Classic engine assembly, there is virtually no space between
the firewall and the back of the engine (my engine dosent have the plastic cover
that you mention). It would be damn near impossible to make the cuts that you
describe without removing the engine and unless the engine breaks I dont intend
to take it off.
If I have got this wrong, let me know.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Holder" <rholder@avnet.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Carb Icing
>
>> From what I have been told the Skydrive is difficult to fit and really
>> requires a hydraulic press to force the heater unit inside the carb body. I
>> wonder how many have been split/ damaged in the process.
>>
>> Does anybody know if Skydrive offer a fitting service. I would be concerned
>> that I might be picking up the cost for a new carb unit if anything went
>> wrong.
>
> I came to the same conclusion as the carbs were definitely not round enough
> to even hold the heater on a thou or two while being put into the vice. In
> the end, rather than risk a 400 or more carb (or two !) I sent them back to
> SkyDrive and they fitted them for 15. OK the postage added another 30 but
> I considered it money well spent !
>
> In fact my recommendation is that you take your carbs off and send them to
> SkyDrive and order the heaters and their fitting at the same time. That way
> you don't pay for an extra leg of the journey for the heaters. I am sure it
> only took them 15 minutes and I am sure you could go there and have it done.
> If I had realised how expensive the postage was (18 from me to them) I
> would have driven up there !
>
> Like many things someone who has done 50 such pressings will be more aware
> of the limitations and the level of force required. I didn't, so it was
> worth the extra 50.
>
> Draining the water system is trivial. Take off Air filter (you would have to
> do that anyway to get the carbs off). Take off water filler cap. Put bowl
> underneath bungey. Be ready to move bowl. Use Stanley knife to cut the pipe
> at the back of the engine just below the flywheel cover (and THAT is an over
> description of a flimsy bit of plastic that does not keep water out of the
> flywheel housing !). Make a decisive cut. Water p*sses out, into bowl which
> you move to catch as much as possible to avoid having to clean it up off the
> floor. (You won't be re-using it !)
>
> After inserting the t-pieces and replacement of the heater connected carbs,
> fill up the water and bleed the pipe between the heaters as specified in the
> instructions. And Bob is your mother's brother !
>
> :-)
>
> Richard
> Richard F.W. Holder 01279 842804 (POTS)
> Bell House, Bell Lane, 01279 842942 (fax)
> Widford, Ware, Herts, 07860 367423 (mobile)
> SG12 8SH email : richard.holder@avnet.co.uk
> Europa Classic Tri-gear : G-OWWW, High Cross
> PA-28-181 : Piper Archer : G-JANA, EGSG (Stapleford)
>
>
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