Dear Tony Renshaw
Make your own jig. I did mine in less than 2 days.
I used the sides of the packing case the kit arrived in. It is board made
---From chips 10mm thick and a little thin for the job, but doing it. If you
can get the use of a jigsaw cutting the rounded cuts in the forms is quick
and easy.
I bought 4 straight pieces of 90x40mm 3.6m long (dressed 4"x2" pine x 12 ft)
and did not cut the "dados" (cut outs) to hold the forms in place; instead I
glued on to them short pieces of 2x1" pine blocks each side of the forms to
form the slots for the forms. You can knock them off when you are finished
and still have the uncut 4x2's for something else.
After I had the jig finished and had begun using it, I moved the third form
as Chuckpops advised about 8" back (this is to allow setting up the flaps
later but I have not got to that yet.
I also lined the cut out edges of the forms where the fuselage rests with
hot water pipe insulation sponge tubing sliced open to let the edges enter.
This stuff also absorbs tight areas against the fuselage. One other addition
was to use a strong bungee cord across each end of the side rails to make
sure it stays together if you drag the jig about the floor.
The only part that is a bit fiddly is getting the shape of the fuselage
right. With the fuselage resting on the floor I did it by resting a piece
of timber across the edges at the form points. The timber had paper taped
over the edge and hanging it at each form point. The trick then is to make
marks on the paper where it just reaches the inside of the shell. This will
give you the line to cut out to suit the fueslage.
When you first put the fueslage into the completed jig take care to look for
any tight spots and relieve them. I got the tail end one to one side a bit
and had to take a bit off one side to let the fuse rest straight.
The the Chuckpops jig is a great help in building and I am certainly glad I
made one.
You have to take care you do only enough to do the job! I have to watch this
trait myself!
Just working on the trim system in the tail end. Next I am going to put on
the top temporarily and put on the fin so I can build the closing at the
back and set in the part of it in the lower fuselage. This should allow me
to do the tailwheel mod working from the top with it open.
Sincerely
JR (Bob) Gowing, Kit 327
24 High St, BEGA NSW 2550
----- Original Message -----
From: <tonyrenshaw@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: aileron hinge flange BID size
> Bob,
> Hi, its Tony from Sydney. Well actually I am in Singapore at the moment
and spending January in Cairns with Australian Airlines, but that is all
chit a chat. I was wondering if I could seek your advice as I recall you are
ahead of me in your build. I am about to launch off into the fuselage and
have the kind offer of the loan of a fuselage jig from Kingsley Hirst in
Taroom QLD. How long did it take you to make up a jig for your fuselage? I
can get Kingsleys down to Brisbane easily, but then I have the hassle of
getting it down to Sydney. So I am wondering whether it is better to
research getting his down or building my own. I must admit I like building
jigs, but mine are always Rolls Royce, take far too long to build and are
well and truly reuseable for quite probably a longer life than the aircraft
they are designed for. I can't really help myself, but I must say I have a
really straight set of wings as a consequence. So I will hang out for "your
words of wisdom" Thanks in an!
> ticipation.
> Reg
> Tony Renshaw
> >
> > From: "J R \(Bob\) Gowing" <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
> > Subject: Re: aileron hinge flange BID size
> > Date: 05/01/2003 19:01:11
> >
> > And if you have a wet pool or just a bit much epoxy in the bottom you
can
> > wick it out with a piece of paper towel.
> > JR (Bob) Gowing, No 327 in Oz
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Graham Singleton" <grasingleton@avnet.co.uk>
> > Subject: Re: aileron hinge flange BID size
> >
> >
> > > >Rowland
> > > >Yes , You will have to overlap the BID strips. An one inch overlap
will
> > be
> > > >OK.
> > > >
> > > >Keeping the BID from stretching out of shape is the hardest parent.
> > > >Cliff Shaw
> > >
> > > The easy way is to wet out the BID on the bench. I use stuff we call
cling
> > > film, I think you say Saran Wrap?
> > > Tape it to the bench, wet out the glass strips then cut the film with
a
> > > Stanley nife and carry it to the job on the film and push it in place,
> > then
> > > carefully peel off the film. Finally carefully stipple in with a
brush.
> > > That way the 45 BD doesn't distort and it isn't too wet either.
> > > Graham
> > >
> >
> >
>
--
> > ----
> >
> >
> > >
> > > ---
> > > Version: 6.0.427 / Virus Database: 240 - Release Date: 06/12/2002
> > >
> >
> >
>
--
> > ----
> >
> >
> > > The Europa Forum is supported by Aviators Network UK
<info@avnet.co.uk>
> > >
> >
> >
>
> This message was sent through MyMail http://www.mymail.com.au
>
>
|