Bob,
I did exactly as you are proposing, and it works beautifully.
I took it one stage further to simplify operation and make it look
nicer.
I turned a couple of aluminium knobs the same diameter as the pip pin
body, anodised them and secured them to the pip pins with roll pins
through the existing ring pull hole.
With pin inserted, the top of the knob is flush with the tailplane,
giving a visual clue if it is not engaged properly.
Forget the piano wire. Pip pins work just as well if they are PUSHED
---From below rather than pulled from above. I found that a small
screwdriver has exactly the right sized shaft to fit into the bottom of
the hollow pip pin. I ground off the tip to make a square end and now
have a very neat, lightweight extraction tool with moulded handle.
Nigel (147)
----- Original Message -----
From: J R (Bob) Gowing <gowingjr@acr.net.au>
Subject: Pip Pin Holes
> I intend following fellow Aussie Barry Wrenford in using tubes only
large
> enough to carry the pip pins minus the split rings. This keeps the
holes
> small and easy to cover with tape as per Ben Clerx's advice. Nigel
Charles
> idea of using white circluar labes sounds good too.
>
> Using narrow tubes in the tailplane means that you will need an
extraction
> tool bent from piano wire to withdraw the pins from above or a dowel
with a
> projecting centre pin made to lift the centre pin and push the pip pin
from
> the underside.
>
> JR (Bob) Gowing UK kit no 327
>
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