Tim,
On Bob Berube's advice (Europa US--Lakeland), some weeks ago I removed a
rudder hinge where I had accidentally used an excess of attaching flox,
thereby causing a "wicking" of epoxy into the hinge pin area... result: a
rock-solid hinge instead of the old-fashioned moving type...
First I drilled out the rivets, then used a heat gun (torch with an
appropriate diffuser), and targeted the remaining exposed metal part of the
hinge with a fairly constant back and forth movement, and never getting too
close. I also used a set of vise-grip pliers clamped onto the hinge to
provide an ever-so-slight gravity aided downward force. After a few
minutes, it simply came off from the weight of the vise-grip, right into my
waiting left hand, and thereby saved me many many hours of rudder rework.
To the specific point of damage--I saw no indication of weakening or
separation of the plies, I think primarily because I did not directly heat
the fiberglass, but focused on the hinge metal. It worked fine and I
appreciated the advice very much. I believe that care and "going slow" is
the key.
Good luck,
Jim Graham
A-101
Tim Ledbury wrote:
> Has anyone had cause to replace the hinges on their
> ailerons/trim tabs? My inspector was unhappy with the play on mine and
> suggested using a heat gun on the hinge to loosen the bonded hinge. I
> spoke to Andy at the factory this afternoon and he was concerned that
> this could soften and deform the trailing edge where the hinge is
> bonded. Initially he suggested carefully grinding away the aluminium
> hinge....I'm really hoping there is a simpler way! Also, any hints on
> how to ensure the holes in the new hinges for the rivets and screws line
> up with those left in the wing/aileron and tailplane/trim tab.
>
> Andy did mention a Peter Kember had been in touch recently about
> replacing his hinges...Peter if you're out there your
> thoughts/experiences would be much appreciated.
>
> Many thanks, Tim
> --
> Tim Ledbury,Tim.G.Ledbury@British-Airways.com
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