Hi! Fred. I used a set of fairings ex. Graham Singleton and reduxed them on
having clico'ed them in place with the wings assembled . However by the
time you have closed the inside of them with scraps of foam and two plys of
bid to reinforce the inboard rib , believe me you will not move the outer
edge of the fillet if it should be too close the 'fus' . it is absolutely
solid.
Regards
Bob Harrison 337 G-PTAG
-----Original Message-----
From: Fillinger@aol.com [SMTP:Fillinger@aol.com]
Sent: 03 September 1999 22:25
Subject: Re: Wing root fairings
Hi, all --
I am about to make the wing root fairings, and I'm wondering if the
following
is maybe a goofy idea. What if release tape were applied to the wing, and
the fairing glassed onto the fuselage side? The result would be about 3/4"
of "lip," in the shape of the wing section, which would overlap the wing
root
(back as far as the flap).
It would seem that ensuring the wing's pins were lined up with their
respective blocks would be just a matter of ensuring that the wing were
inserted squarely into the fairing. Once it is, pin engagement should be
automatic. The fairing would be flexible enough if some bending were
needed
to push the wing home. To minimize the effect of the wing edge possibly
marring the edge of the lip, I'll add white tinting pigment to the resin.
Note that I have a tri-gear. For single-person rigging, I have a 2 ft.
square "dolly" with a foam pad on the top, and which rolls on swiveling
casters. The top surface is adjustable height-wise at each corner, so
rigging is a mere matter of setting the wing on top at its balance point,
twiddling the adjusters, and rolling the wing into place. Works great. I
also have L-shaped, phenolic guide blocks for the spars, positioned at the
bottom of the spar opening. They help a lot too. I figure the above
fairing
idea might make it even easier (though the main reason is aesthetic; better
sealing out rain water).
Has this been done? Any reasoned opinions?
Thanx in advance.
Fred Fillinger, A063
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