Nigel,
I used a fly cutter for the access hole and used the part that came out for
the cover too, but:
Grind down the cutting tool so that it is less than 1mm wide for 6 mm of
its cutting depth.
Do NOT use the tool in a drill or brace but rotate it on the work by
pulling round the cutter end of the bar directly to cut through the
composite. This way you avoid deforming the guide hole in the middle
because there's no side load on it (as there is when rotated by drill or
brace).
Try to cut evenly all the way round (difficult on mine 'cos the composite
was all sorts of thicknesses in this area). If you don't you run the risk
of the middle coming loose before you've finished using it as a guide.
Takes 15 minutes.
(I did my lay-ups with the top off - so can't help there)
Dave Simpson
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From: nigelcharles <NigelCharles@compuserve.com>
Subject: Tailwheel Mod
Date: 09 March 1999 12:10
Having received the tailwheel mod recently and read the phrase 'a degree in
gynaecology would be useful at this stage' I know I will be in for a
frustrating time. Although not complete my Europa fuselage has been painted
so cutting into the painted finish is something I dread. Has anyone used a
fly cutter for cutting the access aperture? If so was it successful? Also
any tips on how to get the layups through the hole and into position
without them sticking prematurely to the skin or themselves would be
greatly appreciated. A sizeable 3ply layup on polythene is not the easiest
thing to handle even if the access is reasonable. Through a 5 inch it looks
near impossible.
I received a useful tip (from Donald Kesterton) when it comes to removing
the original tailwheel casting. Using a hot air gun might work eventually
but it heats up more than just the casting and can damage the bulkhead or
aircraft skin. Heat up a 1 inch steel bar (or heavy tube) away from the
aircraft using a propane torch whilst gently warming up the casting with a
hot air gun at the same time. Insert the bar into the casting from below.
Hold it in position for about 5 to 10 minutes and then use it as a lever to
prise the casting off the bulkhead as the Redux softens. As it is steel the
lower end of the bar will not get too hot if just the top part is heated.
Nigel Charles
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