>>> Can anyone tell me the best type of paint, or more
>particularly, what kinds of paint NOT to use. <<
>
This is a sort of answer to myself but I thought I would transmit
what I have discovered so far:
My problem was how best to discern inconsistencies in filling
between filling "goes", clearly the best way is to blow a light
coating of colour over the entire surface. It makes it easier to
see what is going on, then you can sand back; the areas where colour
remains are the low spots.
Graham Singleton reccommended SP 302 spray filler so I contacted
SP and this is what Martin Armstrong had to say:
DON'T cover a solvent based layer (ie spray filler like SP 302)
with a non solvent based layer (ie Ampreg 20 / fairlite) for at least
10 days. This is how long it takes for the solvent to completely
evaporate. There is a risk of blistering if solvent gets trapped.
You can use a pinch of Colloidal / fumed silica to prevent sag.
This is the same stuff as on sand paper so use too much and the
effect is the same as trying to cut down a tree with a stick.
DON'T use an orbital sander but a long board. (He talked about
20ft ones used on large boats which really need some muscle!)
He suggested that if you wanted to blow a light mist of colour then
use a type of paint which dries and the solvent evaporates very
quickly, eg a cellulose paint. Even then, as the bond between
subsequent layers of filler depends on how good the paint has
stuck, once the paint layer has served its purpose, sand the paint
off the low areas too.
You may spray solvent based layer upon solvent based layer at
will though you risk a serious weight build up if you spray fill
more than the last 1/4 mm
SP 302 costs GBP 51.61 + VAT + shipping for 4 litres + 1 litre
hardener, Solvent "G" (Which may be used to thin by up to 20% by
vol) costs GBP 17.17 + vat + shipping for 5 litres.
Regards
-------------------------------------------------------
Richard Meredith-Hardy TEL + 44 (0)1462 834776
rmh@flymicro.win-uk.net FAX + 44 (0)1462 732668
CIS: 100071,2422
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