> Good morning, Fred,
> Could you post a product name/source for the cables referenced in
> posting this AM?
> Thank you,
> - Ed Lindsay, New Mexico -
Hi, Ed --
One item is A-920 (10-32 threaded rod), both Aircraft Spruce and Wicks
Aircraft . BTW these are intended for engine apps (heat) and the long
but still silky smooth ones are how the go-fasters are set up on big
twins. Note that this will add c. 3" to the front of the housing,
meaning surgery or new housing, and it may interfere with a console
item already there.
Only having done something similar, I'll just suggest a fabrication
method. Buy a long one, cut in two, and you'll have two identical
business ends. There are grooves in the mounting sleeve where would
you make a twin "U-washer" plate from thin steel. Maybe even two
plates back to back to form holes, as fiberglass wears. Rivet, don't
flox, plate(s) to front end of the housing. It will thus swivel also,
but securing the cables downstream fixes that. You can also get ones
with bulkhead hardware both ends, special order from Spruce (A-1550),
I see. Bit heavier though.
To secure to throttle lever, I'd try a 10-32 coupling nut, drilled
crosswise to pass the lever screw, and a jam nut on the cable's rod
end. At carb end, take a 3/4" 10-32 coupling nut, and drill out 1/2
of it, so outer cable can fit inside. Redux it, but it needs
mechanical security for insurance (heat v. epoxy). Maybe mash on a
short, drilled-out chunk of 1/8" cable swage, to attach safety wire.
Something. Take a 10-32 brass screw minus head, long enough to allow
jam nuts both side of carb bracket and adjustment and drill out the
center, so stranded cable can pass thru. Result should then mimic the
original hdwe.
The end of the stranded cable at the carb (but just at the throttle
lever) needs some watery (warm) Redux. If SS cable, it won't solder.
Don't wick too far along the cable, as this end won't articulate. Jam
nuts should have Loctite.
When cutting the cable in two, suggest surgery down to the cable
(Dremel cut off wheel lengthwise). You'll probably find an inner
steel spiral, but then Teflon, then stranded. The cable can unravel
easily, so first epoxy, then snip in half.
Any "best laid plans of..." apparent here?
Regards,
Fred F., A063, chief "mouse"
|