I had to request 4 extra DL07 from Europa factory. I think they are now incl
uded in the kit.
Sent from my iPhone
Tim Ward
12 Waiwetu Street
Fendalton
CHRISTCHURCH 8052
Hom 03315166
> On 17/01/2022, at 12:03, Paul Mansfield <europaul383@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> =EF=BB
> "I would suggest that there should be another bush (like DL07) that goes i
nto the doorframe moulding."
>
> There is another bush (also called DL07) that goes in the door frame (they
were supplied in the kit & I certainly fitted them):
>
> "Shorten the shoot bolt guides <> through the door frame and, ...ensuring t
hat there is a gap of only 1 - 2 mm between the guides in the door and the f
rame, bond them in ..."
>
> ... my emphasis.
>
> HTH,
>
> Paul
>
> G-PLPM
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: John Wighton <john@wighton.net>
> Date: 16/01/2022 17:15 (GMT+00:00)
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Mandatory U.K. LAA permit directive. Shoot-Bolt s
top
>
>
> Following on from my last post I reacquainted myself with the build manual
sections 34 and 35.
>
> The part DL07 is the guide mounted in the door, this gives the shoot bolt a
n axis to follow - hence it needs to be aligned accurately such that DL06 (s
hoot bolt) and the operating rod DL11(F and R) do not bind.
>
> Doing the above should ensure the shoot bolts protrude equally and follow a
longitudinal axis.
>
> Drilling and opening up the door-side holes is covered in manual 35. It s
tates:
>
> "In this step you will be cutting the holes in the door rebates to accept t
he shoot bolts, but first reinforce the area where the holes will be by appl
ying 4 plies of =C3=A2=82=AC=CB=9Cbid=C3=A2=82=AC=84=A2 30 mm x 30 m
m at the back of the door rebates (unmoulded side).
> Once this layup has fully cured apply a small dab of wet ink, or paint to t
he very end of the shoot-bolts. With the door fully pushed home, move the do
or handle towards the closed position until the end of the bolt strikes and,
hopefully, leaves a witness mark on the door reveal.
>
> This is your starting point; drill a 1/4" hole and then with a round file c
arefully open up the hole just enough to allow a shoot bolt guide to fit in t
he door recess, so that when the shoot-bolts are fully extended, the doors a
re fully secured and flush with the outside of the fuselage. Use dabs of pai
nt on
> the shoot-bolt each time you want to enlarge the hole so that you can see w
hich areas need filing. Shorten the shoot bolt guides so that they protrude o
nly 10 - 12 mm (3/8" - =C3=82=C2=BD") through the door frame and, ensuring t
hat there is a gap of only 1 - 2 mm between the guides in the door and the f
rame, bond them in with Araldite 420 and flox."
>
> I would suggest that there should be another bush (like DL07) that goes in
to the doorframe moulding. This could be CNC machined (or 3D printed in a d
urable material). The initial opening would 'collect' the DL06 shoot-bolt t
aper and guide it into the new bushing.
>
> An enlarged flange on this new bushing could be made to act in a similar w
ay to the UglyMod moulding - i.e. preventing the shoot-bolt from moving rear
wards if misaligned.
>
> In summary
> 1. There seems to be a wide tolerance on shoot-bolt length.
> 2. Physical examination of Europa shoot-bolts suggests that the end taper a
nd radius of the bolt is highly variable.
> 3. The locking mech in the door has a nice bushing/guide.
> 4. The shoot-bolt on the doorframe locates into a plain hole that has no d
imensional tolerances (ref build manual 35). The dimension given has no dat
um and may be open to misinterpretation.
> 5. A doorframe mounted bushing - correctly designed, should enable more ac
curate engagement of the shoot-bolt.
> 6. Are the shoot-bolts installed in aircraft sufficiently long?
>
> Discuss.......
>
> --------
> John Wighton
> Europa XS trigear G-IPOD
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
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