There are some. Research the screw manufacturers. You need a #10, 100 deg
ree countersink with a flat head.
Happy web browsing.
Bud
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________________________________
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com <owner-europa-list-server@matr
onics.com> on behalf of William Daniell <wdaniell.longport@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 20, 2020 9:38:08 AM
Subject: Re: Europa-List: Screws for top engine cowling
Ive been wondering if there is an alternative to the phillips heads. I us
e hex sockets #10-32 on my belly plates and everywhere else precisely for t
he stripping issue. So much easier if not quite as aerodynamic.
William Daniell
+1 786 878 0246
On Wed, Feb 19, 2020, 22:55 Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com<mailto:budyerly@msn
.com>> wrote:
Jonathan and all,
For some reason it took months to get back on the list here. I have to adm
it. It was my fault. These spam defense filters are interesting. Well, s
o are airplanes and they are expensive in time and material to maintain jus
t like computer servers.
Jonathan,
You will find that stainless steel machine screws of all types are fairly s
oft. Bits are very hard. Any slipping of the head will damage the Phillip
s head and make it unusable. HAVE A TON OF SPARES!
The most widely used cowl screw is the AN 507 or MS24693 stainless screws o
f =BD, 5/8 and 1 inch (MS24693-C272, -C273, C274) and spares must be kept o
n hand. These 100 degree countersunk screws have a small head and can stri
p easily. These type cowl screws are a #10 screw and take a #2 Phillips he
ad. The #8 screws take a #2 Phillips and the #6 screws take a #1 Phillips.
On the web search for =93How to choose the right tip for screw types=94.
There is some good stuff to learn.
To prevent stripping out of your screws, I strongly recommend a large handl
e ratcheting screwdriver with removable tips that fits your hand properly,
is easy to rotate, and allows you to push and rotate securely. My favorite
screwdrivers are my Snap-On ratcheting type and the straight handle ones a
re by Klien.
[cid:image001.jpg@01D5E77C.8EB20510]Expensive unless you get a deal on a Sn
ap-On.
For those really lazy like me, I use an electric screwdriver, but I only us
e one with a friction clutch or torque setting. I have recommended the fri
ction clutch driver to virtually all my in shop and on line clients. The e
lectric screw driver can be of only 3 volts or as high as 8. More power me
ans more torque, which means it will be easier to strip out a head. The tor
que clutch prevents over tightening for those of you who set the screw to r
idiculous torques. A #10 stainless machine screw only needs 31 inch pounds
to be fully tight. That is #8 position on most electric screw drivers in
my experience. I use the term pinky tight.
Another important point is ergonomics. A proper sized and shaped handle wi
ll allow a good grip, proper positioning and give you a feel as well as a t
orque clutch to prevent driving the screw in too tight, allow you to hold t
he bit firmly in the screw head and prevent cross threading the screw fully
into its seat. Keep a good tight quarter or stubby screw driver set and a
ratcheting handle close quarter type.
[cid:image003.jpg@01D5E77F.4F80C680]
A stainless screw in a steel nutplate (K1000 style) will eventually wear th
e soft stainless out. Throw the screw away and replace it if its head is w
orn, the threads are galled or bent. If the nutplate is loose, simply inse
rt a steel screw in the nutplate about two threads short of the nutplate ti
p and use a Vice Grip to squeeze the nutplate just a bit. If the nutplate
is way to tight, run a tap in it slightly to ease the squeeze.
As fare as electric screw drivers, I have a Hitachi DB3DL2 3.6 volt screw g
un now. Easy to use, can be straight or pistol grip, the drive buttons can
be used single handed and the collet lock is smooth and easy to use. I bu
y proper locking bits (and nut drivers) of the sizes needed. My original e
lectric screw gun was a very cheap 3 volt with a non locking collar, and it
worked OK. As I used the cheapy gun more and more, I upgraded to a lockin
g collet. Good tools are indispensable.
[cid:image007.jpg@01D5E77F.4F80C680]
It is essential that you keep a list of spares. Screws are like oil and ga
s as far as I=92m concerned, consumables.
Clients have noted I have a spare screw, rivet, nut, bolt, wheel bearing, p
itot tips, clamps, hoses, tubes and tires so I am not stuck looking for stu
ff when I needed it. If it is a screw on my plane, panel, or wheel pant, I
have a spare in the shop and for those frequently dropped, lost or special
ized, I keep it in my cockpit tool kit spares. I have a list for my expend
ables on my website and drawers full of stuff in the shop for each screw, w
asher, nut, etc. On my annual, if a screw is questionable, corroded, or co
mpromised, I throw it out.
Best Regards,
Bud Yerly
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s 10
From: JonathanMilbank<mailto:jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk>
Sent: Wednesday, February 19, 2020 7:53 PM
Subject: Europa-List: Screws for top engine cowling
<mailto:jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk>>
My aircraft was originally built as a Classic and more recently converted t
o Neville Eyre engine cowlings, while I continue to use the same kind of ca
ptive nuts and screws ( 23 off ) as before.
I have a considerable assortment of screwdrivers and several different styl
es of Phillips screwdriver tips, yet even with considerable care and not us
ing an electric driver, it doesn't take too many re-fastenings before the s
lots in the screw heads become worn out.
I have two questions. Although the builder's manual describes the screws as
EU 11, what is the correct part number in the LAS Aerospace catalogue, or
any other source, for me to use when ordering the short screws? Which Phill
ips tip is the best to use with these screws?
Thanks, Jonathan
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