Ive been wondering if there is an alternative to the phillips heads. I
use hex sockets #10-32 on my belly plates and everywhere else precisely for
the stripping issue. So much easier if not quite as aerodynamic.
William Daniell
+1 786 878 0246
On Wed, Feb 19, 2020, 22:55 Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
> Jonathan and all,
>
> For some reason it took months to get back on the list here. I have to
> admit. It was my fault. These spam defense filters are interesting.
> Well, so are airplanes and they are expensive in time and material to
> maintain just like computer servers.
>
>
> Jonathan,
>
> You will find that stainless steel machine screws of all types are fairly
> soft. Bits are very hard. Any slipping of the head will damage the
> Phillips head and make it unusable. HAVE A TON OF SPARES!
>
>
> The most widely used cowl screw is the AN 507 or MS24693 stainless screws
> of =C2=BD, 5/8 and 1 inch (MS24693-C272, -C273, C274) and spares must be
kept on
> hand. These 100 degree countersunk screws have a small head and can stri
p
> easily. These type cowl screws are a #10 screw and take a #2 Phillips
> head. The #8 screws take a #2 Phillips and the #6 screws take a #1
> Phillips. On the web search for =9CHow to choose the right tip for
screw
> types=9D. There is some good stuff to learn.
>
>
> To prevent stripping out of your screws, I strongly recommend a large
> handle ratcheting screwdriver with removable tips that fits your hand
> properly, is easy to rotate, and allows you to push and rotate securely.
> My favorite screwdrivers are my Snap-On ratcheting type and the straight
> handle ones are by Klien.
>
> Expensive unless you get a deal on a Snap-On.
>
>
> For those really lazy like me, I use an electric screwdriver, but I only
> use one with a friction clutch or torque setting. I have recommended the
> friction clutch driver to virtually all my in shop and on line clients.
> The electric screw driver can be of only 3 volts or as high as 8. More
> power means more torque, which means it will be easier to strip out a hea
d.
> The torque clutch prevents over tightening for those of you who set the
> screw to ridiculous torques. A #10 stainless machine screw only needs 31
> inch pounds to be fully tight. That is #8 position on most electric scre
w
> drivers in my experience. I use the term pinky tight.
>
>
> Another important point is ergonomics. A proper sized and shaped handle
> will allow a good grip, proper positioning and give you a feel as well as
a
> torque clutch to prevent driving the screw in too tight, allow you to hol
d
> the bit firmly in the screw head and prevent cross threading the screw
> fully into its seat. Keep a good tight quarter or stubby screw driver se
t
> and a ratcheting handle close quarter type.
>
>
> A stainless screw in a steel nutplate (K1000 style) will eventually wear
> the soft stainless out. Throw the screw away and replace it if its head
is
> worn, the threads are galled or bent. If the nutplate is loose, simply
> insert a steel screw in the nutplate about two threads short of the
> nutplate tip and use a Vice Grip to squeeze the nutplate just a bit. If
> the nutplate is way to tight, run a tap in it slightly to ease the squeez
e.
>
>
> As fare as electric screw drivers, I have a Hitachi DB3DL2 3.6 volt screw
> gun now. Easy to use, can be straight or pistol grip, the drive buttons
> can be used single handed and the collet lock is smooth and easy to use.
I
> buy proper locking bits (and nut drivers) of the sizes needed. My origin
al
> electric screw gun was a very cheap 3 volt with a non locking collar, and
> it worked OK. As I used the cheapy gun more and more, I upgraded to a
> locking collet. Good tools are indispensable.
>
> It is essential that you keep a list of spares. Screws are like oil and
> gas as far as I=99m concerned, consumables.
>
> Clients have noted I have a spare screw, rivet, nut, bolt, wheel bearing,
> pitot tips, clamps, hoses, tubes and tires so I am not stuck looking for
> stuff when I needed it. If it is a screw on my plane, panel, or wheel
> pant, I have a spare in the shop and for those frequently dropped, lost o
r
> specialized, I keep it in my cockpit tool kit spares. I have a list for
my
> expendables on my website and drawers full of stuff in the shop for each
> screw, washer, nut, etc. On my annual, if a screw is questionable,
> corroded, or compromised, I throw it out.
>
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Bud Yerly
>
> Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for
> Windows 10
>
>
> *From: *JonathanMilbank <jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk>
> *Sent: *Wednesday, February 19, 2020 7:53 PM
> *To: *europa-list@matronics.com
> *Subject: *Europa-List: Screws for top engine cowling
>
>
> jdmilbank@yahoo.co.uk>
>
> My aircraft was originally built as a Classic and more recently converted
> to Neville Eyre engine cowlings, while I continue to use the same kind of
> captive nuts and screws ( 23 off ) as before.
>
> I have a considerable assortment of screwdrivers and several different
> styles of Phillips screwdriver tips, yet even with considerable care and
> not using an electric driver, it doesn't take too many re-fastenings befo
re
> the slots in the screw heads become worn out.
>
> I have two questions. Although the builder's manual describes the screws
> as EU 11, what is the correct part number in the LAS Aerospace catalogue,
> or any other source, for me to use when ordering the short screws? Which
> Phillips tip is the best to use with these screws?
>
> Thanks, Jonathan
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=494897#494897
>
>
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