Rowland
There is no problem with your proposal just make sure you only take a little off
at a time and preferably all round rather than one side, I would advise you
to fit the hinges before taking too much off as that in itself can alter the
actual
fit. If you take too much off one side then you run the risk of the back
side of the door catching the fuselage and you cannot put it back once you have
sanded it off. Once you have finished fitting the doors check the edges for
any air bubbles that may have been exposed and fill them, another worthwhile
check is to tap around all the edges and recesses or apply pressure with a hard
piece of plastic or wood, this will of the expose any air trapped between the
gelcoat and the laminate. This will have been done at the factory when the doors
were made but it is always possible to miss one. It is better to do this
now rather than find a bubble after it has been painted. You may also have to
do a little more trimming and fitting once the Perspex has been fitted as this
can also change the fit slightly when the door is clamped in when gluing the
Perspex in. When the doors were manufactured they were trimmed in a jig as near
as possible without taking too much off, the final fit to be completed by the
builder to allow for any discrepancies in the build process by each builder.
Dave Glowa
Ex proprietor of 3D Mouldings, we made all the parts for Europa.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rowland Carson
Sent: 12 October 2016 20:33
Subject: Europa-List: door fitting query
--> <rowlandcarson@gmail.com>
Re fitting the doors, chapter 35, page 35-1, of the fine manual says:
"you will need to spring them into place, this is quite normal, the tapered
shoot-bolts
pull them down to the shape of the fuselage and onto the rubber seal
My doors do need to be sprung into place but not, as far as I can tell, in the
way described above. The curve of the doors does seem to match the shape of the
fuselage recess quite well.
I havent yet fitted the hinges, but have fettled the door tangs as called out,
and the top edge of the door is near to touching the edge of the door recess all
the way between the hinge tangs. When I lower it into position, the bottom
edge of the door catches slightly on the lower edge of the door recess. Its
possible
to spring it slightly to make it fit, but the pressure needed is UP, not
DOWN. I dont feel happy about leaving it thus, for the following reasons.
(1) When the door is sprung into place like that, the central sections of the
front
and rear window-frames are being pushed out slightly proud of the door recess.
(2) If the door catches on the sill in that way in service, it will destroy the
finish on both parts quite quickly.
So, I plan to remove about 1 or 2mm along the bottom edge of the door. Before I
get started with the long PermaGrit sanding block, can anyone offer a good
reason
not to do so?
in friendship
Rowland
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