Just as an extra precaution give the screws a good dose of WD40 or
similar before fitting then they come out easily once the glue has gone
off. I had mine in a pot pre dosed before I started the fit.
Pete
G-RMAC Classic #109
On 08/01/15 01:54, Bud Yerly wrote:
>
> Time for my two cents:
>
> Bob Berube introduced me to using the self tapping screws but caution
> is necessary.
>
> To fit the top I use US 3/32 inch clecos. This type of cleco does not
> pull through as easily since the lower flange is four layers. After
> fitting the top for the fourth time or more, sometimes I have to
> upgrade to 1/8 inch. We have probably close to 500 clecos so no big
> deal for us.
>
> For those using the British style temporary fastener:
> I will use washers with the British style fastener as the lip on these
> fasteners deteriorate the hole in fiberglass pretty quick. If I have
> to put on a washer, I have to prep the area, and I glue the washer on
> with super glue. Lasts a long time. Gluing is all about the prep. I
> wash the whole kit first with TSP or detergent to remove the release
> wax. Then I clean the joint with acetone and scotch brite. If you
> sand, and it makes dust, it's ready to glue. No dust on sanding, bad
> joint.
>
> Like Ron and many others, I will screw on my top on final, because I
> can put the screw in and pull down until the skins come to a nice
> fit. Don't pull the screw down hard and force the two skins to pull
> down so hard as to squeeze all the glue out. Nor do you want the
> screw to pull the outer skin away from the inner. It's a technique.
> Be careful. Screws are the same principle as the screw type temp
> fastener, which can be pulled down too tight as well.
>
> Technique:
> To get a nice fit, and get control of my joint, I open up my top side
> holes a bit to allow the screw to spin and not grip, and then allow
> the self tapping screw threads to bite into the lower so I can adjust
> the skin pull down with careful screw gun use...
>
> As for fit. I try to keep the sides level, but don't worry. Just
> fill it. The sides are flat on the kit, and I like to fill the sides
> then block a nice curvy rounded side. If the filler ever gets beyond
> 3/32 inch, consider putting a layer of 2 oz. glass over the filler.
> Peel ply and its ready for a bit more filler... No cracking. If you
> are worrying about your walkway area showing cracks around the wing
> fillet to skin, we lay one layer of carbon from just behind the wing
> spar out to the first forward rib to stiffen the skin, and to prevent
> cracks in the filler which is scary seeing cracks in your wing.
> Filler is a necessary evil in a composite airplane. Learn the
> technique. I started learning to fill by doing my wheel pants. I
> have found that nice wheel pants take as long to fill as the
> fuselage. All those curvy fillets are a pain.
>
> Have a happy new year you all.
>
> Best Regards,
> Bud Yerly
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "rparigoris" <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2015 8:09 PM
> To: <europa-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Fuselage join
>
>> <rparigor@suffolk.lib.ny.us>
>>
>> Hi Group
>>
>> As far as the fuse seam joint: "awe, just screw it"!
>>
>> I used Clecos for a gazillion on and offs, but screws that captured
>> very nice.
>>
>> I detailed my top bond on, could save a bunch of bullets in your foot:
>> http://www.europaowners.org/main.php?g2_itemId=35521
>> (3 pages)
>>
>> There are more notes than this so study pics and my notes. Here are a
>> few:
>> ** pay attention for need to trim sternpost (easy to overlook)
>> ** as I noted use enough fasteners, you can see recovery (I found out
>> when I cut vent hole)
>> ** my kit was missing foam and second layer of glass on the inboard
>> side, so I added foam and glass
>> ** My fin ribs fit terrible, so I mutilated and made them fit
>> ** poor fit starboard side corner fixed by "dolphin" repair
>>
>> Good luck.
>> Top bond on was a fun part of build! Enjoy.
>> Sincerely
>> Ron Parigoris
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=436762#436762
>>
>>
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