Tony
I am out of town on family/Europa family visits combining work and pleasure
. Our first trip together for Anita and I in years. Short I phone answer:
Please consult Allied Electronics (alliedelec.com). I use Amp/Tyco or Nort
hwest D sub connectors. They have crimp connectors from #30-#18 gauge wire
. Trim servos are normally #26 sized.
Buy the pins and keep on hand in assorted bins. Aircraft avionics use most
ly 22=2C20 and for higher power 18.
I buy the assortment of pins that cover a range. 22-24=2C 20-22=2C and for
higher amps 18=2C
Buy descent crimpers of the ratchet type and practice.
I do D subs everywhere. If I need a interior quick disconnect I use a D su
b or the very small Molex with square connectors.
Solder has to be practiced and MUST prevent wicking to prevent cracking. O
f you are good at it go for it.
Regards=2C
Bud
Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Bud=2C
Reviewing my emails I noticed your thorough input below to my trim question
. I posted recently=2C some time later=2C my conclusions=2C which aerodynam
ically I will vouch for=2C but=2C it is contrary to what you recommended. T
he manual omits to tell you the orientation of the rivet pattern=2C which h
as been the root of my dilemma. My components conflict because of the rivet
head=2C which is a real irritation. I often build too fine tolerances=2C w
hich is probably a common perfectionist trait=2C but it commonly creates p
roblems=2C like this one. I am chasing around trying to get all the pitch c
ircuit sorted=2C with the top on and off trying to get the counterweight th
row sorted too=2C so that the tailplane hits the bump stops before physical
stops. As I did it years ago=2C I am relearning everything including solde
ring and fine wire connections for the RC Allen servo and position gauge. I
would like to know what form of connector you recommend on the fine wires
of the poaition indicator? I could solder on a D-Sub fitting but would pref
er a Fast-On crimp but they dont seem to suit below a #22 AWG wire. I also
have to get the indicator's connector through the panel hole=2C because as
i recall it is slid into the hole and rests in place with a surrounding fla
nge. I am in Tokyo=2C so cant check at the moment=2C but the implication is
that my connector needs to go through the hole=2C and the wires are not th
at long out if the position indicator to not get it right the first=2C or a
t a pinch=2C the second time.
Seems my cranked control sticks with my Tosten grips are going to give me g
rief too=2C as they sit ontop if the stick=2C through a 1" insert=2C so the
sticks have been cut down as much as possible but still conflict with my p
anel. I might have to cut and weld in an insert in the middle portion of th
e stick. It currently doesnt seem to come back far enough at full aft stick
=2C as its only mid thigh. I reckon it should come back till my left elbow
is against the seat back would be a good geometry test=2C so I need to get
it back more. I have a fence arrangement around the bottom of my sticks=2C
to attach a leather boot=2C and stop FOD jamming the controls=2C but it now
makes iy very awkward for me to get in there to try and lengthen the link
rod=2C to crank back the entire range. So=2C still a work in progress=2C bu
t I was told to work from the back forward=2C which is why I'm messing arou
nd with trim units. So Bud=2C if you've got any tips about small wire conne
ctors=2C i'll soak it up with thanks.
Regards
Tony Renshaw
> On 24 May 2014=2C at 12:03=2C Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Tony=2C
> In Annex E it says:
> Check that trim bellcrank does not contact TS05 push-rod when fully aft (
tab full up) and tailplane is
>
> trailing edge up.
>
> This should be in Chapter 19 also but is not as it is assumed when checki
ng clearances.
>
> If I read you correctly=2C I am just repeating what others have said I am
afraid. With the stab full up and trim rod full down=2C the TS05=2C T sha
ped trim push rod=2C should not contact the TS 03 bell crank long arm side
where the trim clevises attach at full up stab (I use 13 degrees full up).
The clevis from the motor to the clevis on the TS03 butt against one anoth
er on the #8 rod attaching them. If you look with the stabs all done=2C tr
im tabs on=2C and fully extended trim motor=2C look hard at the TS05 trim r
od and it normally just contacts the clevis. Simply take it apart=2C(it is
an airplane so if you haven't taken it apart and put it together 5 times
=2C you are doing it wrong.) cut 1/16 inch from each clevis and reassemble
and test. 1/8 inch off each is the most I have done. At this time check t
he TS05 trim push rod does not rub against the slot in the bulkhead it pass
es through. This is very hard to do with the top on.
>
> Nice to catch it now with the top off rather than go in and try to do it
after the top is on=2C especially with the inspection hole size recommended
by the manual.
>
> Now something not in the manual and is very embarrassing:
> I found one of my aircraft with the nyloc nut which holds the TS03 to the
TS04 (spring and washer thingy) and its check nut were loose. As the damp
er unit moves=2C it vibrated a bit and to my distress=2C the TS04 was a bit
floppy. This has never happened to me. Easy fix=2C a drop of Loctite and
tighten up was all it took. I use torque seal paint on all my bolts but n
ever put it on my nylock / check nut on the drag / dampener bolt as I never
thought this part would cause trouble... So a word to the wise=2C make th
is part of your final assembly check=2C and put a bit of torque seal paint
on your nuts on this part also.
>
> As far as mounting the trim servo=2C we do add an aluminum plate of .016
inches with 4 nut plates riveted on to it and the plate Reduxed and riveted
to the back side of the bulkhead. We use nut plates everywhere where we c
an't get to a nut easily. (Yes=2C it takes longer but we have not had good
luck with gluing a nut on over time.) We also use a #6 Allen head screw to
hold the trim motor on since it is easier to put an Allen screw driver bal
l head on it than a wrench should the trim motor need to be changed some ti
me in the way distant future. (I've never had a Mac Servo fail=2C but I h
ave a D sub on it anyway=2C just in case.)
>
> Enjoy Building
> Bud
>
>
> From: tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Clevice \Forks debacle.........
> Date: Fri=2C 23 May 2014 08:02:24 +1000
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>
> Hi Bud=2C
> Could you please elaborate where the fouling is more specifically? I appr
eciate knowing this=2C so I am thankful Bob brought it up. I have the top s
till off so its ideal I overcome these issues now.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
> On 23 May 2014=2C at 7:40=2C "Bud Yerly" <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Bob=2C
> You are right on the money. Every aircraft I have built needed about 1/8
off each clevis on the pitch mechanism to allow the trim bar to clear at f
ull elevator and trim travel. As for interpreting the English Language....
No comment.
> Regards=2C
> Bud Yerly
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Fred Klein
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Thursday=2C May 22=2C 2014 10:30 AM
> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Clevice \Forks debacle.........
>
> Bobthank you for your attention to my build photo and for alerti
ng me to this issue=2C however vexing you may find it.
>
> I am simply baffled to learn that you find =9Cthere is already enou
gh shit flying about on the issue=9D and that it=99s an exam
ple showing that =9Cpeople just can=99t read and interpret the
English language=9Dplease do not attempt to elaborate
I can do without further discussion which you find unsuitable for postin
g on Matronics.
>
> Fred
>
>
> On May 22=2C 2014=2C at 2:19 AM=2C Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net> w
rote:
>
> Hi! Tony /Fred.
> To try to help you over this vexed issue concerning the clevis forks I ju
st spoke to a local friend on the issue ....his immediate response was that
he had removed =C2=BC=9D but when I questioned him further he start
ed to apply some engineering reason to the issue and suggested that we prob
ably both removed 1/8=9D from each clevice to ensure there was adequa
te thread purchase left on both clevices. Which is the principle I would ap
ply =2C the only thing better is to remove it from one and check the operat
ional clearance as to whether it is necessary to do the other too.
> I=99m not publishing this on the Matronics site since there is alre
ady enough shit flying about on the issue =2C people just can=99t rea
d and interpret the English language !
> Regards
> Bob H
>
>
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