Thanks Bud,
You say solder must prevent wicking to prevent cracking....could you elabora
te please?
Regards
Tony Renshaw
Sent from my iPad
> On 16 Jun 2014, at 12:20 pm, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
> Tony
> I am out of town on family/Europa family visits combining work and pleasur
e. Our first trip together for Anita and I in years. Short I phone answer:
>
> Please consult Allied Electronics (alliedelec.com). I use Amp/Tyco or Nor
thwest D sub connectors. They have crimp connectors from #30-#18 gauge wire
. Trim servos are normally #26 sized.
>
> Buy the pins and keep on hand in assorted bins. Aircraft avionics use mos
tly 22,20 and for higher power 18.
>
> I buy the assortment of pins that cover a range. 22-24, 20-22, and for hi
gher amps 18,
>
> Buy descent crimpers of the ratchet type and practice.
>
> I do D subs everywhere. If I need a interior quick disconnect I use a D s
ub or the very small Molex with square connectors.
>
> Solder has to be practiced and MUST prevent wicking to prevent cracking. O
f you are good at it go for it.
>
> Regards,
> Bud
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID
>
>
> Tony Renshaw <tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Bud,
> Reviewing my emails I noticed your thorough input below to my trim questio
n. I posted recently, some time later, my conclusions, which aerodynamically
I will vouch for, but, it is contrary to what you recommended. The manual o
mits to tell you the orientation of the rivet pattern, which has been the ro
ot of my dilemma. My components conflict because of the rivet head, which is
a real irritation. I often build too fine tolerances, which is probably a c
ommon perfectionist trait, but it commonly creates problems, like this one.
I am chasing around trying to get all the pitch circuit sorted, with the to
p on and off trying to get the counterweight throw sorted too, so that the t
ailplane hits the bump stops before physical stops. As I did it years ago, I
am relearning everything including soldering and fine wire connections for t
he RC Allen servo and position gauge. I would like to know what form of conn
ector you recommend on the fine wires of the poaition indicator? I could sol
der on a D-Sub fitting but would prefer a Fast-On crimp but they dont seem t
o suit below a #22 AWG wire. I also have to get the indicator's connector th
rough the panel hole, because as i recall it is slid into the hole and rests
in place with a surrounding flange. I am in Tokyo, so cant check at the mom
ent, but the implication is that my connector needs to go through the hole, a
nd the wires are not that long out if the position indicator to not get it r
ight the first, or at a pinch, the second time.
> Seems my cranked control sticks with my Tosten grips are going to give me g
rief too, as they sit ontop if the stick, through a 1" insert, so the sticks
have been cut down as much as possible but still conflict with my panel. I m
ight have to cut and weld in an insert in the middle portion of the stick. I
t currently doesnt seem to come back far enough at full aft stick, as its on
ly mid thigh. I reckon it should come back till my left elbow is against the
seat back would be a good geometry test, so I need to get it back more. I h
ave a fence arrangement around the bottom of my sticks, to attach a leather b
oot, and stop FOD jamming the controls, but it now makes iy very awkward for
me to get in there to try and lengthen the link rod, to crank back the enti
re range. So, still a work in progress, but I was told to work from the back
forward, which is why I'm messing around with trim units. So Bud, if you've
got any tips about small wire connectors, i'll soak it up with thanks.
> Regards
> Tony Renshaw
>
>
> On 24 May 2014, at 12:03, Bud Yerly <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Tony,
>> In Annex E it says:
>> Check that trim bellcrank does not contact TS05 push-rod when fully aft (
tab full up) and tailplane is
>>
>> trailing edge up.
>>
>> This should be in Chapter 19 also but is not as it is assumed when checki
ng clearances.
>>
>> If I read you correctly, I am just repeating what others have said I am a
fraid. With the stab full up and trim rod full down, the TS05, T shaped tri
m push rod, should not contact the TS 03 bell crank long arm side where the t
rim clevises attach at full up stab (I use 13 degrees full up). The clevis f
rom the motor to the clevis on the TS03 butt against one another on the #8 r
od attaching them. If you look with the stabs all done, trim tabs on, and f
ully extended trim motor, look hard at the TS05 trim rod and it normally jus
t contacts the clevis. Simply take it apart,(it is an airplane so if you ha
ven't taken it apart and put it together 5 times, you are doing it wrong.) c
ut 1/16 inch from each clevis and reassemble and test. 1/8 inch off each is
the most I have done. At this time check the TS05 trim push rod does not r
ub against the slot in the bulkhead it passes through. This is very hard to
do with the top on.
>>
>> Nice to catch it now with the top off rather than go in and try to do it a
fter the top is on, especially with the inspection hole size recommended by t
he manual.
>>
>> Now something not in the manual and is very embarrassing:
>> I found one of my aircraft with the nyloc nut which holds the TS03 to the
TS04 (spring and washer thingy) and its check nut were loose. As the dampe
r unit moves, it vibrated a bit and to my distress, the TS04 was a bit flopp
y. This has never happened to me. Easy fix, a drop of Loctite and tighten u
p was all it took. I use torque seal paint on all my bolts but never put it
on my nylock / check nut on the drag / dampener bolt as I never thought thi
s part would cause trouble... So a word to the wise, make this part of your
final assembly check, and put a bit of torque seal paint on your nuts on th
is part also.
>>
>> As far as mounting the trim servo, we do add an aluminum plate of .016 in
ches with 4 nut plates riveted on to it and the plate Reduxed and riveted to
the back side of the bulkhead. We use nut plates everywhere where we can't
get to a nut easily. (Yes, it takes longer but we have not had good luck w
ith gluing a nut on over time.) We also use a #6 Allen head screw to hold th
e trim motor on since it is easier to put an Allen screw driver ball head on
it than a wrench should the trim motor need to be changed some time in the w
ay distant future. (I've never had a Mac Servo fail, but I have a D sub on
it anyway, just in case.)
>>
>> Enjoy Building
>> Bud
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: tonyrenshaw268@gmail.com
>> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Clevice \Forks debacle.........
>> Date: Fri, 23 May 2014 08:02:24 +1000
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>>
>> Hi Bud,
>> Could you please elaborate where the fouling is more specifically? I appr
eciate knowing this, so I am thankful Bob brought it up. I have the top stil
l off so its ideal I overcome these issues now.
>> Regards
>> Tony Renshaw
>>
>>
>>
>> On 23 May 2014, at 7:40, "Bud Yerly" <budyerly@msn.com> wrote:
>>
>> Bob,
>> You are right on the money. Every aircraft I have built needed about 1/8
off each clevis on the pitch mechanism to allow the trim bar to clear at fu
ll elevator and trim travel. As for interpreting the English Language.... N
o comment.
>> Regards,
>> Bud Yerly
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Fred Klein
>> To: europa-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2014 10:30 AM
>> Subject: Europa-List: Re: Clevice \Forks debacle.........
>>
>> Bobthank you for your attention to my build photo and for alerti
ng me to this issue, however vexing you may find it.
>>
>> I am simply baffled to learn that you find =9Cthere is already enou
gh shit flying about on the issue=9D and that it=99s an example s
howing that =9Cpeople just can=99t read and interpret the Englis
h language=9Dplease do not attempt to elaborateI can
do without further discussion which you find unsuitable for posting on Matr
onics.
>>
>> Fred
>>
>>
>> On May 22, 2014, at 2:19 AM, Bob Harrison <ptag.dev@talktalk.net> wrote:
>>
>> Hi! Tony /Fred.
>> To try to help you over this vexed issue concerning the clevis forks I ju
st spoke to a local friend on the issue ....his immediate response was that h
e had removed =C2=BC=9D but when I questioned him further he started t
o apply some engineering reason to the issue and suggested that we probably b
oth removed 1/8=9D from each clevice to ensure there was adequate thre
ad purchase left on both clevices. Which is the principle I would apply , th
e only thing better is to remove it from one and check the operational clear
ance as to whether it is necessary to do the other too.
>> I=99m not publishing this on the Matronics site since there is alre
ady enough shit flying about on the issue , people just can=99t read a
nd interpret the English language !
>> Regards
>> Bob H
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List";>http://www.matron
href="http://forums.matronics.com";>http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution";>http://www.matronics.com/c
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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>> a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
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>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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>>
>>
>>
>> target="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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>> a-List"">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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>> //forums.matronics.com
>> D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
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>> ot;">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
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>>
>
>
> >http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Europa-List
> onics.com
> ww.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
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>
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