Hi Bud,
Time will tell about that getting carried away part, hahaha.
I absolutely figured you had a mold for the cowl!
I looked in anticipation, but could not find the info on Jerry Hopes belt
drive alternator. Perhaps I am doing something wrong, but would certainly
like to find it.
A Garmin SL30 (maybe someday a 430 or 530) and an EFIS to show its output
has long been on my wish list, along with a HID landing light (lower power
draw, higher intensity light output).
I looked at a video on You|ube that was demo-ing that flashlight and must
say WOW. It has an amazing output. Imagine that one would work just great as
a Europa landing light. Might have to give the HID lights another thought.
:)
Thanks for the informative Ramblings,
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 9:01 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator
Greg,
I hope you don't get too carried away. Every ounce you add, or increase to
the frontal area, the more performance you loose.
To see an example of one of my cowl mods, look at Jerry Hope's 914 with
belt drive alternator. (www.customflightcreations.com click on accessories
and tips.) I cut the front of the cowl off, and Jerry and I made a floppy
glass cover then began the task of filling, smoothing, making a mirror image
for the other side and continuously checking for clearance for the belt and
pulley. I made a mold of the front early on and it is rough. I should have
cleaned it up. The belt drive alternator really does deliver the amps.
Note in the photo, you can see the alternator is right up against the intake
opening. It also extends the cowl forward about 1/8-1/4 inch because of the
pulley.
I still believe my Europa simple VFR cruiser is the best idea.
All LEDs, (including the feeble Kuntzelman landing light at .6 amp), no
pitot heat, all EFIS and light draw radio/transponder, keeps my amps in
check. Even with all my toys running, I do not draw over 15 amps until I
key the mic button.
If I do go on to do a light IFR (health permitting) I'll add a Garming Nav
Com like the SL30, and purchase a simple pitot heat (like Angus
Aviation/Dynon). I'll add an Aux battery and an Alternator to the back of
the gearbox to power the pitot heat and a proper landing light for night.
(Aveo has an LED unit, which is expensive, but bright. I still would prefer
an HID light, however check out the new 13000 Lumen flashlights by
Trusfire.)
The aux battery and alternator will most likely be similar to the B&Cs small
unit which will keep the aux battery charged but only have enough battery
life for about 30 minutes at idle for the HID/or LED light and supply the
pitot heat for just the time necessary to penetrate a thin deck.
Just the ramblings of an experimenter.
Regards,
Bud
_____
From: gregoryf.flyboy@comcast.net
Subject: Europa-List: Cowl mods for front belt driven alternator
Date: Sat, 25 Jan 2014 13:54:17 -0800
>Perhaps in the situation above, it would be prudent for a 914 builder (914
can draw 11 amps on its own with both pumps running) to consider a belt
driven ??
>alternator of 40 amps, and simply redo the cowl front and keep the Rotax as
a backup in case of belt failure.
Bud, or those that know,
At some point, or future avionics upgrade, my ship will likely need the
extra Watts.
Would you care to supply a 'teaser' on the making of the cowl mod? I am
still waiting for my FF package, so don't yet have a handle on how it
integrates with the prop flange, but does the front of the cowl terminate
just behind the prop flange, on the smaller-radius drive tube? Are the
belt-driven alternator components in front of the cowl then, requiring the
cowl front face to be opened up and added to? Is this considered an
extensive change?
Regards,
Greg
_____
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bud Yerly
Sent: Thursday, January 23, 2014 9:13 PM
Subject: RE: Europa-List: Re: Ducati rectifier/regulators
.....
If you are an amp zealot, but still want an aux fuel pump, pitot heat, 100
watt landing light, strobes, heavy draw radio (Garmin 430 type), Aux Radio,
Mode S transponder continuously working, autopilot, stereo high quality
music system, external power plugs for our phones, I-pads and inflight video
system, the Rotax charging system is not going to hack it.
Perhaps in the situation above, it would be prudent for a 914 builder (914
can draw 11 amps on its own with both pumps running) to consider a belt
driven alternator of 40 amps, and simply redo the cowl front and keep the
Rotax as a backup in case of belt failure.
If you build a 912S airplane with all LED lighting, Garmin 255 or Becker
Com, Simple digital Transponder, Aux Boost, and maybe an autopilot for
cruise only and a paper map, then the Rotax / Ducati should be fine. The
GR6 or SH may be better and longer lasting to boot. In my opinion the Rotax
system can't put out much more than 15 amps or so and as the current
increases, the voltage output starts to diminish (at least it does in my
poor old airplane) .
Just my thoughts.
Bud
> Date: Mon, 20 Jan 2014 16:40:25 +0100
> From: jan_de_jong@casema.nl
> To: europa-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Europa-List: Re: Ducati rectifier/regulators
>
>
> Re two-phase bridge rectifier/regulator.
> The 2 thyristors in the rectifier bridge do not short the AC input or
> "dump" anything.
> On the contrary, they disconnect the DC output from the AC input when
> the output voltage threatens to exceed the set voltage.
> All output current passes through one branch of one diode and one
> thyristor in series half the time and through the other identical branch
> also half the time.
> Heat development is proportional to the output current and the voltage
> drop across a branch.
> Voltage drops increase somewhat with current, so heat development
> increases more than linearly with output current.
> In the Ducati device the diode is reportedly a MR2510 pill (typically
> 0.75V at 10A, 0.8V at 20A), the thyristor can be a 2N6504 (typically
> 1.1V at 10A, 1.3V at 20A).
> So at 10A the two branches of the bridge are each expected to generate
> 0.5 x (7.5 + 11) = 9.25W (total 18.5W) of heat.
> And at 20A the two branches of the bridge are each expected to generate
> 0.5 x (16 + 26) = 21W (total 42W) of heat.
>
> (
> a failure mode for the Ducati device is reportedly the loss of
> continuity of a diode pill attachment through thermal cycling; fitting
> external parallel diodes has been proposed as a solution; replacing the
> whole device seems more sensible
> )
>
> Cheers,
> Jan de Jong
>
&g======================
&g======
>
>
>
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