Being a belt and suspenders guy, I would put BID on the top of the aluminum
and run up the inside of the tunnel wall to carry the load up the sides. I
wouldn't bolt it but rather rivet it (just to hold it in place or clamp it
until the glue dries - then glass it in place - you are never going to tak
e it out I assume. You can also use the aluminum and/or the fliberglass to
provide the lip to hold the door flush to the bottom and to hold your nut p
lates for mounting the door. (Wrap the door in saran wrap and use as the fo
rm for the lip - as you probably know.)
I have been working with Bud Yerly and he has convinced me to nutplate ever
ything - so I can remove stuff without a helper.
Gary Leinberger
Associate Professor
Finance
McComsey Hall 340
Millersville University
MWF 11-Noon, TTH 3:45-4:30 PM, W 1-3 PM
717-872-3817
gleinberger@millersville.edu
From: owner-europa-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-europa-list-serv
er@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sidsel & Svein Johnsen
Sent: Tuesday, December 13, 2011 12:49 PM
Subject: SV: Europa-List: Bottom cut-outs
Gary,
Thank you very much for your good comments.
I will give it a try with the openings that I presently have, and will do a
s you suggest - move some parts (the T for fuel return and the T for sight
tube) so that they become accessible in the wheel well, provided I manage t
o get out those parts and hoses (some surgical cutting of the old hoses cou
ld do the trick).
Without having performed any structural analysis, attached is a sketch of h
ow area B (ref. my previous mail) could be cut out and the strength of the
bottom retained when an aluminum cover of adequate thickness and quality is
bolted in the cut-out's place. WARNING: Not verified in any way!!
Good luck with completion of your build!
Regards,
Svein
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